<A second Stag I have has all the AC components. I'd like to use the original components include the york compressor if possible Can this be accomplished? Sujit> Sujit, I managed to find the missing components for the original AC system for my Stag, had it recharged with R-12 and it works well and blows ice cold air. Don't have any knowledge on the Vintage Air systems but I hear good thingby fmags - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
I also had a perfectly operating clutch until I pulled the gearbox off for a rebuild. I figured as long as it was out, I would replace the clutch. Unfortunately I chose to put in 'new NOS' clutch parts that came with the car when I bought it 10 years prior. Had really bad clutch judder ever since; turned out to be a faulty pressure plate I think. So, I bought a heavy duty clutch kit from Tonyby fmags - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
Hi Julian, If you have wire wheels, check that the nuts for the wheel hub adapters are tight. I had a similar vibration that got bad enough that it loosened 3 of the 4 nuts on one of the rear wheels and sheared one stud. The rear subframe bushings were also starting to separate; they were originals. Not sure which was the cause; worn bushings causing the vibration and the nuts to loosen or thby fmags - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
Getting on this thread kind of late, but rebuilding the Stag brake booster cannister is fairly easy. I rebuilt mine about 15 years ago with a kit either from Rimmers or Paddocks. I had to make a tool to unscrew the whole thing with the other end in a vise while putting my full body weight on it to compress the spring. It has worked fine every since. Not sure what the price of the kit was thenby fmags - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
A couple of good points from Miki and StagBy Triumph that jogged my memory; As was pointed out make sure the sprocket teeth are flat across the top as they are when they are new and not so worn that they come to a sharp point. If you end up replacing the sprockets and especially the crank sprockets follow the ROM carefully. There are some steps in there to take measurements to make sure that thby fmags - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
One very easy and simple thing to check is to take the oil filler cap off, and look at the physical condition of that chain and sprocket. Is the roller a nice even color or is there visible wear where the roller contacts the sprocket? You should see a very slight color difference where the roller essentially gets polished as it rides over the teeth of the sprocket; not blued or showing significby fmags - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
I have a system similar to Randall's. Two Thrush glasspacks on a customs made system. The sound is wonderful. I wouldn't change a thing. Not too obnoxious, but throaty enough to make people realise there isn't a 4 cyl under the hood. Frankby fmags - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
Tim, not sure if you have wire wheels or solid wheels: I had a very bad vibration on mine which turned out to be the rear wire wheel adapter hubs coming loose. Not only check the nuts for tightness, but also check to see if there is any play by attempting to rotate the wheel with the parking brake on, with the rear end up on jackstands. The vibration on mine started out gradually at about the spby fmags - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
I have to agree with Peter. I have never logged into the forum. I belong to many other car digests and subscribe in the digest form to all of them; it takes minutes to scan through them and pick the ones I want to read or respond to. I don't need a lengthly email to tell me how to do it; its pretty obvious. I belong to the Jag forum and have logged into it 3 or 4 times until I finally figuredby fmags - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
Stuart, I had the same problem on my '72; same symptoms. Nothing in the hydraulic circuit was of any help. Several things that I did at the same time which cured it: Making some alignment pins for the bellhousing to engine block mating, fitting a longer snout from a later Stag with the matched collar which had the retaining ring cut into it to retain grease. I also relieved all of the sharpby fmags - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
I just installed new rear outer subframe mounts and new studs for the R rear splined shaft adapter and new beveled nuts and all is well. I put it up on jackstands this afternoon and had a friend run it up to about 70 mph; all the UJs and driveshafts look fine. The only thing I noticed was that the wire wheels need trued up but everything else is fine. On the road there is a slight vibration, bby fmags - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
Hi Tim, I've had about 3 Spitfires and as many GT6s over the years so I couldn't resist. Sold my last GT6 and all of my spares a few years ago after 25 years of owning that one; what a great car. But I had the thin down the herd. If I remember right, the hazards relay is located dead center on the engine side of the firewall or very near the fuse box also on the engine side of the firewall.by fmags - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
Hi Stuart. I had a problem with a notchy clutch as well. I had several problems and tried to address them all at once. I made some alignment dowels for the top out of tooling pins that I had machined down to the proper diameter. I think I made two pins for the top. I did not put one in the bottom. I also had notches or grooves in the bottom of the snout where the back of the bearing carrierby fmags - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
I did mine a few years ago similar to the way Miki did his. I made a long wrench (about 1.5 ft)out of a flat steel bar with holes to pick up the studs. I put the whole unit in a large vise with the jaws wide open; the vise was just to keep one half of the unit from turning as I turned the other half with the wrench with my full weight down on it so it wouldn't fly apart. worked pretty well. Assby fmags - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
Hi Peter. Actually the shuttle was moved from center and it was stuck. It took alot of compressed air with it on the bench to get the shuttle out. Once it was unstuck, cleaned, reassembled and brakes bled the brakes worked much better than they had before. But it does appear that one is dragging hard now. Will put all 4 wheels on jacks this w/e and see if any others are dragging or just thby fmags - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
thanks Peter; I'll look into that as well. It is the opposite wheel. not the one with the broken wheel studs. I can turn it by hand with the wheel on, but it is tight. I noticed it some time back; all 4 wheels were dragging slightly in fact, and the PWDA light was on. I overhauled the PDWA and all was well, or at least I thought. Once I get the subframe mounts and studs replaced, I'll pby fmags - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
sorry to take up a whole digest... lol.by fmags - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
While investigating my subframe mount and vibration problem, I found that my L rear wheel is stiff to turn. Is there an automatic adjuster for the drum brakes? Could that be the culprit? Any suggestions? thanks, Frankby fmags - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
Well, the plot thickens. Upon jacking the car today, the R rear wheel was about to come off. two wheel studs were sheared off and floating about behind the wheel, one of the two remaining nuts was about halfway off and the stud was worn to about half its diameter and the last one was barely tight allowing the whole wheel/splined shaft assembly to pivot about the one last stud. So I think thisby fmags - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
thanks for the drawing Peter, very helpful.. Parts order going in this evening. Frank ----- Original Message ----- From: "Peter Howells" <peter@ldpart.co.uk> To: "Frank Magnusson" <fmags@cox.net> Cc: <stag-digest@digest.net> Sent: Saturday, August 28, 2010 10:39 AM Subject: Re: bad vibration, noise on decel > Thanks > It is most unlikely the bolby fmags - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
thanks Peter. I am hoping that the bolts under the rear seat have not pulled through the bodywork since the subframe mount has so much space between it and the body. Also hoping that the subframe mounts are the cause of the vibration/noise and not the result of a UJ coming apart. I think the UJs are ok, though; I grabbed both rear axles and prop shaft on either side of all the UJs and theby fmags - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
Well, Peter, it looks like you were right on the money. Brave call perhaps but right on; torn through outer subframe mounts (both of them). The outer subframe mounts are literally hanging off and hard as concrete from age. There is about an inch clearance between one mount and the body and 1/2 inch on the other. That explains it all pretty well; under load, one of the mounts is pressed hardby fmags - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
Thanks everybody for the suggestions; I will take a look at all of those. Frank M.by fmags - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
Hi Peter, good to hear from you and thanks for the reply! I'm not sure what either of those components are offhand, but I think I have an idea. I'll have to check the ROM and take a look under the car this w/e and look at those items. If that doesn't show anything obvious, I think I'll put the rear end up on jackstands and ask a friend to run it in gear with me looking underneath; hopefullby fmags - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
I drove the Stag to work today and noticed a pretty bad vibration in the drivetrain when I let off the gas on the highway pulling off at an exit. On the way home it significantly deteriorated. It is fine going at a steady speed, not there accelerating, but on deceleration it vibrates very badly. It also started making a mechanical clunking noise that is related to the speed of the car, not RPMby fmags - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
Hi Stuart, 9 ft is probably a bit close. My garage had at least 12 ft ceilings and it wasn't a problem. I pulled mine two years ago to replace the clutch; took the whole engine/gearbox out as a unit with everyhting on. I had the front end up on jackstands to get enough clearance to get the tailshaft clear. The whole assembly comes out almost vertical. Once I had the tailshaft clear of the firby fmags - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
Hi Ed, One other thing that it could be is the clutch hose. I had a similar problem on my Austin-Healey 3000; once it got hot the clutch would not function anymore. The Healey has a clutch hose similar to a front brake caliper hose; a braided rubber hose. What was happening was once I pushed the pedal in, it disengaged the clutch properly but once I released the pedal, the hose collapsed on itby fmags - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
Hi Stuart, you might try Team Triumph in Ohio. They sell alot of used Triumph parts; I bought several parts from them for my Stag a few years ago; good parts; reasonable prices and very helpful. They're at: Team Triumph 695 Summit St. NW Warren, OH. 44485 330-392-7176 Good luck with your AC installation. Frank Magnusson Wichita, KS <Date: Sat, 4 Oct 2008 17:37:28 -0400 From: "Stuarby fmags - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
Rod, I put Michelin MX4s on mine which which come in 185 R14. Look great, handle great, are close to the original size and not expensive. Frankby fmags - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
Thanks; I'll take a look >SC Parts stock big Healey parts as do UK Healey , Denis Welch Mototsport and AH Spares ;by fmags - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum