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Re: [stag] Fuel Tank Sealing - 5 days ago
I had problems with my brother's Spitfire 1500 tank, which had sat for most of its life and had LOTS of powdered rust inside (no leaks). We were clogging 2 filters per week when we first started using it regularly. I removed the tank and cleaned it electrolytically with a galvanised bolt, wire, battery charger and bicarb soda... something like this except I dangled the bolt inside the tank asby Nathan - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
Re: Dizzy adv. springs. - 3 months ago
Hi Julian, One is "supposed" to be slack when stopped. The other weight controls the advance for lower rpm, and as the revs increase the second weight takes up the slack and retards the advance curve, if that makes any sense. The non-slack spring should have light contact, although neither of the springs should look permanently stretched. Apart from ensuring that the weights are nby Nathan - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
Re: Half-shaft conversion anyone?? - 5 months ago
Only 2 comments to add. 1. I've been told several times (but haven't confirmed it myself) that the saloon driveshaft flanges are thicker around the UJ holes and are therefore "better" to ream out to Datsun size. 2. If you are starting from totally original, I'd highly recommend uprating the rear bearing hubs with modern conversions. Don't waste money machining the original Triumphby Nathan - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
Re: [stag] Re: coolant in the V - 8 months ago
Hi all, Worth checking the thermostat housing as well. Shouldn't end up in the plug, but it's certainly an ex-leak point on my Mk II. Housing distorts and doesn't sit flat against the inlet manifold. Gasket leaks at the bottom and runs down the V. Nathanby Nathan - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
Re: [stag] Knock at top of RH Strut - 10 months ago
I've given up on the spring compressors. When the strut is out of the car, I put the assembly in a 20 tonne press and compress it by maybe 4". Then I bind starter cord around the topmost and lowermost available coils like lacing up a drum - and tie tightly tyogether. I've never had a problem with it - and cutting the string after reassembly is certainly a quick way of letting the spring outby Nathan - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
Re: Ignition issues with hot engine - 10 months ago
Hi Chris, Yes, I've had almost exactly that before. In my case it was arcing inside the distributor cap. I don't see it in your list of replacement parts. My problem was with a blue cap and the arcing was very difficult to see unless you looked very closely. Effectively the spark plugs get shorted out which show symptoms very like incorrect timing. I haven't had the problem but I understandby Nathan - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
Re: Oil Leak - can't trace the source - 11 months ago
Hi Tim, I think another prime candidate is the cap for the oil pressure relief valve. It's the cap held in by the split pin on the body of the oil pump, and you should be able to feel if there is a weep from it. Nathanby Nathan - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
Re: [stag] A question regarding cars fitted with AC - 1 year ago
Hi Sujit, From memory the Triumph system deliberately doesn't heat the centre vent - a safety feature of the time. It's to prevent the driver becoming drowsy by blowing warm air at your face. I imagine that could be a problem in the saloons but agree that some warm air would be nice on the face in an open top car ! The eyeball vents should have a nice amount of warm air available though...by Nathan - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
Re: [stag] Wheel installation - 1 year ago
Stuart, My understanding is that the wheels (alloy and steel - not wire) should be centred by the central hole over the protrusion in the hub. All the nuts do is hold the wheel against the hub. Have I missed something ? Nathanby Nathan - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
Re: [stag] Drive Shaft Upgrade - 1 year ago
Joe, The main difference in the old Datsun shafts is the overall width ie track of the original car. I have always used Datsun 180B (610 Japanese Bluebird model) but from memory only the Datsun 1600 (510 domestic model) will probably work also. I think someone (Julian perhaps ?) was using Datsin 240Z shafts which are about 1" longer, which may be an advantage with a narrower diff (Dby Nathan - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
Re: [stag] Drive Shaft Upgrade - 1 year ago
Hi Joe, I think the decision comes down to several factors: 1. How much do you want to spend ? 2. How long will you keep the car ? 3. How "original" does it need to be ? (Do Datsun shafts increase or decrease the "value" of the car ?) 4. How much do you cherish the "period feel" vs "modern classic" ? For me, I like to make bolt-on modificationsby Nathan - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
Re: [stag] Renold or German chains? - 1 year ago
I think the wear is deceptive as well. Early on, just the side plates will be wearing on the (presumably new) guides, so it matters little whether they are smooth or not - they wear grooves in the rubber guides and the tensioner also extends of course. After the grooves have worn, the roller elements of the chain run on the centre of the guide and the wear should drop back to nothing much. It's rby Nathan - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
Re: Location of impressed chassis number - 1 year ago
I understand your pain. I once had to get a 1998 SAAB re-registered in NSW which had come from SA. The RTA (registering authority in NSW) had a book which insisted that there was a chassis number stamped in the engine bay, but we couldn't find it. I went away and phoned SAAB who said some of the cars had the chassis number stamped under the rear seat on the crossmember, and that's where we foundby Nathan - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
Re: Reverse gear: Strange whirring noise and feeling like clutch slip - 1 year ago
Very interesting. Mine has had the same problem since I've had it. (77 Man O/D owned about 8 years now) Occasionally reverse just slips then seems to recover. I've also noticed that sometimes there will be a very faint vibration in direct drive which goes away when overdrive is selected. Sounds like it might be time to have the overdrive looked at then... particularly the "direct driveby Nathan - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
Learn something new every day - 1 year ago
When I rebuilt my engine several years ago, I noticed that the left head had been sleeved on the cam bearings, and had to have quite a bit shaved from the inlet manifold faces to get the waterways and ports aligned properly. More on one face than the other, in fact. (I have had to machine the bottom of the inlet manifold to clear the welch plug housing in the block...) After reassembly, my suspicby Nathan - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
Re: [stag] difficult 3rd to 2nd downshift - 1 year ago
Hi all, When I last rebuilt a Triumph box I was advised to scuff the synchro cones on the gears themselves with a little wet and dry - similar to cross hatching the bores in a fresh engine build. The synchro works on friction and over time the cones become quite polished, reducing the friction. They need to pick up and retain some oil without excess slip to do their job. Not sure whether itby Nathan - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
Re: Front end clunk - 1 year ago
Loose or broken caliper retaining bolts, Loose strut insert (loose retaining nut) Just a guess off the top of my head...by Nathan - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
Re: auto gear selector the clunk bit - 1 year ago
Stuart, Unless your diff has had some attention recently there will be an extraordinary amount of slack in there. The most common problem is wear on the planet wheel shaft and thrust washers. These parts are quite cheap, you can replace them in the car by taking the rear cover off, and it makes a huge amount of difference. Even on a manual car you can then accelerate and decelerate at willby Nathan - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
Re: [stag] Automatic BW35 downshift cable adjustment - 1 year ago
Sorry Harvey et al, Of course the cable adjustment I suggested was only to be done at idle in neutral. Yes, please don't drive with the cable disconnected... Nathanby Nathan - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
Re: [stag] Automatic BW35 downshift cable adjustment - 1 year ago
Hi Sujit, The way we always used to set the cable for 2500s was to get the carbs and linkages sorted, then adjust the outer cable so that the inner cable had no slack, and no tension at idle. Best way was to disconnect the connecting pin and splitpin, adjust carbsm then adjust the cable so that the pin just slitted back in again. Check with the shift patterns as already described of courseby Nathan - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
Re: [stag] Evans NPG - 2 years ago
Hi Peter, I got as far as deciding to go ahead with it, but my intended supplier had stopped supplying Evans NPG and instead now stocks "Liquid Intelligence 115 High Temperature Waterless Coolant" - locally produced in Australia. I didn't like the look of it as much and had fordotten about it. Will probably eventually get back to thinking about it, but haven't tried yet. Then agaby Nathan - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
Re: [stag] Cars for Sale - 2 years ago
Not on a Stag advert, but it always surprises me how many cars in Australia are advertised with duel fuel - Presumably avgas for the 1/4 mile sprint as compared to the LPG the taxis run on...by Nathan - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
Re: RE: RE: [stag] Re: GoodParts CV axles for the Stag - a project - 2 years ago
Hi all, Having followed Glenn's logic at about the same time, I also replaced my rear hubs for more modern bearing designs. My rear bearings have needed adjustment again late last year - and having had to adjust play out three times now I decided to replace them before some other grief took over. The cost of some re-worked hubs was very close to the rebuild cost I was quoted. The "newby Nathan - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
Re: RE: [stag] County oil pump: Use old 40psi spring or new 72 psi spring ? - 2 years ago
Hi all, I was told by one of the BL (Australia) engineers who tried to figure out some of the Stag issues under warranty here, that many of the engine's problems related to the front bearing of the jackshaft. Tight clearances when they were new caused excess chain tension and ruined engines, or large clearance caused low pressure as all the oil leaked out there. I only volunteer it as an eby Nathan - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
Re: [stag] Strut Upper Swivel Assembly - 2 years ago
Hi Gavin. Welcome aboard ! Greetings from a much drier Sydney ! Am I correct in assuming your bearing (bush) is frozen in the outer sleeve ? You should find that there is the bush and two thrust washers which should turn with the shaft (washers turned by the flat on the strut shaft) and the sleeve and two other thrust washers which have tabs to retain them in the rubber mount. A good onlby Nathan - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
Re: RE: RE: [stag] Brake question - 2 years ago
I totally agree, Randall. Except next time I might do it when I'm alone in the car. the next 15 minutes passed in silence, but it's been brought up at every dinner party since. (Usually the other husbands suggest that they would have done the same thing, only to be stared down by their wives...) We have an annual MOT equivalent in Australia, although the brake test is a little marginal. The prby Nathan - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
Re: RE: [stag] Brake question - 2 years ago
Ken, Ive done the EBC Greenstuff pads and then a few months later the braided brake hoses. EBC: Only just fitted with the pistons retracted fully. Not sure if my replacement caliper pistons are a fraction too "tall" but the brakes dragged for a few hundred kms. Front brakes were noticeably grippier, although I wouldn't say the move had transformed the car or anything. Worth having,by Nathan - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
Re: Plea to log in to the Forum when posting - 2 years ago
Hi all. I rely on the mailing list to see if there are any topics of interest or which I have any experience with. I've never been able to reply by email so whenever I post I've been used to logging in. I rarely log in without being in response to the email postings. Therefore I really enjoy both forms. Thanks Glenn for your hard work. Nathanby Nathan - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
Re: Dributor refurb - 2 years ago
Hi Sam. Usually one spring will be slack - from memory, the softer spring which is taut will give the initial advance behaviour and the loose spring then reduces the advance at higher revs. Centrifugal force increases with the square of the rotational speed so the springs need to "increase stiffness" at higher engine speeds (grossly oversimplified). This is done by sequencing the twoby Nathan - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum
Re: Steering rack question from Mk1 and Mk2 - 2 years ago
Hi all, Is the Mk I rack the same as the 2500 then ? My 2500S used to have a Stag rack (thinner stops so "better" turning circle) and I've been told by several rack rebuilders that the only difference between saloons and Stag racks is the end stop thickness. Is this correct ? (Seeing I bought my "spare" 2500TC for the wheels and the rack, whenever it finally gives up and diby Nathan - Triumph Stag dot Net Forum