TriumphStag.NET - stag

not stag related. (no replies)

CanadianStag — Wed, 08 Sep 2010 22:20:46 -0400

Just for fun I thought I would post some pics of the two new toys I bought today.. at least one is british and I think might cost more than the stag to keep running :)

Wizard's cooling radiater (no replies)

Anonymous User — Wed, 08 Sep 2010 21:37:38 -0400

Give Cory at Wizard a call as he has measured a MK 1 Stag radiator and is
presently making one for a friend of mine.

Cheers
Dave Lawrence
Toronto

Inlet manifiold bolt spacing (3 replies)

sujitroy — Wed, 08 Sep 2010 14:46:40 -0400

Guys,
One of the guys in my local triumph club is going to make me a 2"
plate with
three perpendicular holes in it which I can bolt onto the inlet
manifold bolt
holes. This will plate will enable me to drill perpendicular
holes in the head
for the helicoil. Since I'm having to take the inlet
manifold off, I might as
well do all the bolt holes

Does anyone have the
placement of the bolt locations with respect to each other?
We can use the
inlet manifold as a guide, but the guy is a machinist.

I don't have bolt in
front of me but is is a 5/16x24 UNF? I need to buy a heli
coil tap. Also are
there special heli-coli taps for blinds holes, or should I
buy a regular one
and have the tapered part of the thread ground down?

Thanks, Sujit

Sujit
Roy Realtor
Keller Williams Realty,
20230 Stevens Creek Blvd., Suite E
Cupertino, CA 95014
Direct: (408) 839-8359 or (650) 427-0ROY (0769)
Email:
sujitroy@yahoo.com
Website: [RoysRealty.com]

Wizard Cooling's Radiator on MK I system (2 replies)

BritCarFan — Tue, 07 Sep 2010 05:51:21 -0400

Happy Labor Day for the American forum members!

I have a stock MK I cooling system on the Stag. Ie. the radiator, plumbing and inlet manifold are of the early variety. Is it possible, using the existing hardware (manifold etc), to install an aluminum Wizard Cooling radiator (which seems to be for the later higher pressure system)?

Otherwise I would have to get a MK II manifold and perhaps a presurized overflow bottle.

Spitfire Question (6 replies)

Tim Oliver — Tue, 07 Sep 2010 05:55:31 -0400

I thought i might put this question to you guys as you seem to have an abounance of knowlege in most areas and covering most cars.
My colleague has a 1978 Spitfire which has just failed the MOT on the Hazards warning lights not working with ignition on or ignition off.
All indicators work fine.

Sounds like it could be a relay if so any ideas of its location?

I must admit i thought hazards were not part of the test.

Thks
Tim

Stag tools (3 replies)

jmitch@snet.net — Wed, 08 Sep 2010 20:29:55 -0400

Can anyone tell me what, if any, tools would have come with 1972
Federal stag? Thanks John Mitchell

Re: Electronic Distributors (no replies)

Anonymous User — Sat, 04 Sep 2010 06:38:28 -0400

Hi Julian

Yes, an early rebuild looks in order. Loose/missing springs are very common,
as is a seized cam. I sometimes marvel at how the condition of 2 tiny springs
can have such a strong influence on engine performance.

As Miki describes very exactly, in new condition the cam should be held back
against the stop with the distributor stationary. Anything else as in my
previous diatribe is wrong, meaning worn or missing springs, worn weight pins.
It is probably a good idea to do some pre-preparation by checking the
distributor is in fact the correct part number (= 8 figure Lucas despatch
number) for your engine and then find somebody who is reconditioning the
spindles, who can supply springs, is the cam bush worn too......... Beware
inexpert 'reconditioners' who may have used the wrong parts inside your
dizzy.

This business of the cam being very loose with lots of rotational free
movement means that the ignition can be VERY far advanced at tickover and
lower running speeds when you need acceleration. Interestingly, 'points' will
largely hold back the cam so that advance is not excessive, but immediately
you put in an electronic ignition rotor with little rotational resistance, the
timing is much more advanced (dangerously so?) as seen on a timing light.
When experiencing 'pinking' in use, most people are savvy enough to rotate the
distributor to retard the static timing - and thus achieve knock-free
operation during acceleration with detriment to correct timing at higher
engine speeds. But by this time the ignition system is totally compromised
with knock-ons for the engine.

This is why a full rebuild is in order and will much improve performance and
economy - irrespective of 'points' or electronic ignition. A classic case of
new obviously working much better than old.

IMHO - Mike Wattam
Chairman - Triumph Stag Register
The Only Truly International Stag Club for Stag Owners
Up to date technical advice without vested interests
www.tristagreg.org
Mike@tristagreg.org
Phone: +44 (0) 1202 761051

Do you really need to send your message?
Is your message correctly titled?
Is it in simple 'text' format, without duplicate copies?
Do you really need to send back the incoming message?
Are you targeting the right person(s)?

---------------------------------------------------------------
> Rotor arm can freely rotate through approx. 10 degrees
> without any spring return action whatsoever. Only when
> rotating a little further anti clockwise does it return
> (slightly) via a spring action.
>
> I'm getting the idea my dizzy needs a rebuild which shouldn't
> be too hard. Just need to get the rusty sills done first.

Stripped inlet manifold thread (2 replies)

sujitroy — Sat, 04 Sep 2010 00:36:08 -0400

While trying to re-torque my inlet manifold bolts, I noticed one of the long
bolts thread is stripped. The other short ones in the area are fine. I do have
a
slight leak.
My question is. Is there a quick short term fix? I'm looking
for something which
will prevent me removing the manifold and inserting a
heli-coli., but enable the
bolt to tighten.

I'll prefer to wait until the
winter months to heli-coli all the threads.

Sujit
Sujit
Roy Realtor
Keller Williams Realty,
20230 Stevens Creek Blvd., Suite E
Cupertino, CA 95014
Direct: (408) 839-8359 or (650) 427-0ROY (0769)
Email:
sujitroy@yahoo.com
Website: [RoysRealty.com]

Notchy throttle on uncle jack (4 replies)

Anonymous User — Sat, 04 Sep 2010 20:07:51 -0400

uncle jack has a notchy/sticky throttle in the light-throttle range. No probs when really on the power, but it shows up when cruising around town. 1973 Stag with standard engine and carbs.

I have looked over and moved by hand the throttle linkages around the carbs and all seems well. Not had time to crawl under the dash yet.

Two possibilties occur to me:

Pedal setup: The bushing the pedal rotates on is dry and needs lube. How does one lube it?

Cable: The trottle cable is sticky and needs some lube. What does one use? Graphite? How do you do this?

Any known characteristics I should be looking for?

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UB "uncle jack"
2004 Suburban 8.1
2005 Lotus Elise
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
[www.flickr.com]
[www.triumphtransamerica.org]
[www.mnautox.com]

Stag Digest Advertisers: regular posting (no replies)

Anonymous User — Fri, 03 Sep 2010 01:40:26 -0400

For information on how to support the stag-digest with advertising, contact
Richard Welty, rwelty@krusty-motorsports.com

If you are a subscriber who wishes to help support the list, contributions
may be directed via PayPal to rwelty@averillpark.net

Re: brake servo dismanteling (no replies)

fmags — Thu, 02 Sep 2010 22:51:47 -0400

I did mine a few years ago similar to the way Miki did his. I made a long
wrench (about 1.5 ft)out of a flat steel bar with holes to pick up the studs.
I put the whole unit in a large vise with the jaws wide open; the vise was
just to keep one half of the unit from turning as I turned the other half with
the wrench with my full weight down on it so it wouldn't fly apart. worked
pretty well. Assembly went pretty well also. Has worked very well since.

Frank

can sometimes hear a hissing sound, from the brake pedal side, which is
accompanied by little or no braking assistance. After 36 years this is maybe
not surprising. I think it is the only bit of the car I have not had apart!

Has anyone successfully repaired the brake servo? There is a service kit for
it which implies it can be repaired, but there is nothing in the ROM about it.
I have looked on the net and the only description I could find was for
dismantling and old Ford Escort servo. This involved keeping the vaccuum on
the servo whilst separating the two halves to keep the internal spring
compressed and stop it flying apart. Sounds a bit risky!>

Notchy clutch (6 replies)

stuizzy — Fri, 03 Sep 2010 12:58:10 -0400

I have a problem with the clutch on my 71 federal spec stag - the pedal has
started to feel "notchy" as I depress and release it. It was ok last year
when I refitted the gearbox. I have replaced the master and slave cylinders
but still have the problem. So I think it must be the bearing carrier
binding on the input shaft. When I put the gearbox back in I greased the
input shaft. Interestingly if the engine is off the clutch is smooth. I have
been searching the archives and have found some discussion relating to gear
box alignment. I have dowel bolts in the top part of the gearbox and note
that LDPART sells a special one for the lower part of the gearbox which is
said to improve alignment. Has anyone had experience with this? Only other
thought is that the grease has dried out and causing it to bind which will
mean a gearbox off job!

Stuart Connell

Steering rack question from Mk1 and Mk2 (3 replies)

sujitroy — Fri, 03 Sep 2010 08:39:10 -0400

ISTR the turning circle of the MK1 stag is larger than the Mk2 or something to
that effect. Is the difference due to the steering rack being diifferent or
something on car to limit the travel? If it is the rack, would
anyone know what
components are different if any from Mk1 or Mk2.

Sujit
Sujit
Roy Realtor
Keller Williams Realty,
20230 Stevens Creek Blvd., Suite E
Cupertino, CA 95014
Direct: (408) 839-8359 or (650) 427-0ROY (0769)
Email:
sujitroy@yahoo.com
Website: [RoysRealty.com]

Brake Servo Dismantling (7 replies)

Mike_Parker — Fri, 03 Sep 2010 06:28:56 -0400

My brake servo is showing signs of failure: When I depress the brake pedal I can sometimes hear a hissing sound, from the brake pedal side, which is accompanied by little or no braking assistance. After 36 years this is maybe not surprising. I think it is the only bit of the car I have not had apart!

Has anyone successfully repaired the brake servo? There is a service kit for it which implies it can be repaired, but there is nothing in the ROM about it. I have looked on the net and the only description I could find was for dismantling and old Ford Escort servo. This involved keeping the vaccuum on the servo whilst separating the two halves to keep the internal spring compressed and stop it flying apart. Sounds a bit risky!

Bigger radiator (no replies)

Anonymous User — Thu, 02 Sep 2010 09:45:34 -0400

Sorry guys but in my previous post on this subject it should have read. Left
hand Header

I had a 3/8 FIP (female iron pipe)fitting welded 3 inches down on the right
> hand header. This is for the thermostatic sensor to switch the fan on and
> off.

Cheers
Dave Lawrence
Toronto

Soft top colour restorer (7 replies)

Tim Oliver — Fri, 03 Sep 2010 15:26:22 -0400

Hi
Has anyone used the Renovo soft top restorer, just wondered what the results were like for colour and waterproofing ability.

Also what size would do 1 hood.

Thks Tim

Wheels (4 replies)

Anonymous User — Sun, 05 Sep 2010 02:57:20 -0400

Both of my Stags have wire wheels and I am getting a set of alloy ones that
will most likely go one the one that I am presently restoring.

Does anyone know of a wheel that is fitted as standard to a vehicle ,that is
sold here in North America ,that would look good on a Stag.

I would like to have a set of Minilite's as i think they look fantastic but
the cost to have them shipped from England is prohibitive (anyone this side of
the Atlantic got a set for sale)

How do you determine what offset a wheel has and what would be required for a
Stag

Cheers
Dave Lawrence
Toronto

Bigger Radiator (5 replies)

Anonymous User — Thu, 02 Sep 2010 05:15:09 -0400

I installed the aluminium radiator, that I purchased from Wizard Cooling,in my
Stag and I know that some of you are interested in the results.

The craftsmanship is second to none and it just looks fantastic.

I had brackets welded on the front of the rad to fasten the 16 inch Spal fan
to. The brackets have 1 3/4 inch vertical slots to enable the correct
positioning of the fan.

I also had them install a 3/4 inch drain plug on the bottom of the right hand
header tank.If you remove this plug you can install a 3/4 MIP (male iron
pipe) X 1/2 G.H (garden hose)adaptor,attach your garden hose and give the
cooling system a good flush.

I had a 3/8 FIP (female iron pipe)fitting welded 3 inches down on the right
hand header. This is for the thermostatic sensor to switch the fan on and
off.

The aluminium rad is wider than the stock rad and I believe that this is a
good thing as it holds more water,has more surface area for cooling and blocks
those open areas at the sides when the stock rad is installed. this helps ram
more air through the rad.

I found that I had to enlarge the two holes that the studs on the bottom of
the rad go through as the new rad is considerably thicker.

The expansion line is 1/4 inch OD and should be 5/16. Wizard are aware of
this and will be making the change.

I will eventually be removing the engine driven fan and just relying on the
electric one but I wanted to make a true comparison with the way I had the
engine and electric fan both installed previously.

I did not install the engine fan shroud on the aluminium rad

A couple of weekends ago we took a run from Toronto to Rochester (220 K) with
the ambient temperature hovering around 70-75 F and speeds around 70-73 MPH.
With the previous rad my temperature gauge would have been past the half way
mark. With the aluminium rad the gauge read approximately 1/4.

My car is in very good condition and has never really got close to the red on
the gauge ,but it always bothered me when i would go over 70 MPH for
any length of time the gauge would creep up to the 5/8 point

This radiator will not cure any mechanical problems you have but will
certainly reject heat better than the stock one.

Cheers
Dave Lawrence
Toronto

North America - Stag Windshields at TRF (5 replies)

StagByTriumph — Thu, 02 Sep 2010 23:09:50 -0400

Hi All,

Replacing my windshield this week, I asked The Roadster factory how many Triumph Stag windshields they have left.

In case you did not buy when they were on advance order for $249 plus shipping and are wondering if they have any remaining ...

They have seven (7) PN 917558 Green Tinted (A/C UV tint standard install) windshields. Price is now $299, USA shipping seems to be $65-$75 comes securely crated in a strong wooden box in 3-5 days UPS Ground.

TRF (800) 678-8764 in Pennsylvania

I had Safelite install mine for $100 in labor.

There are no new Triumph Stag windshields anywhere else in North America.

Gaskets you need to get from the UK, James Paddock, RobSport, Tony Hart, Rimmers all carry them. Maybe LD Part??

Cheers!

Glenn Merrell, TSN Admin

SUPERGIL RADIATOR (2 replies)

jmitch@snet.net — Thu, 02 Sep 2010 04:40:08 -0400

I see that Tony Harts sells what he calls a Supergill radiator with
a reduced number of tube rows to allow better air flow. Does anyone
know if this is just a re cored standard radiator? If so, can I have
mine re cored locally, and essentially come up with the same thing.
What would I ask the radiator shop for in the way of core material?
Thanks for any thoughts. John Mitchell 72 Stag 76 TR6

Inner sill? (3 replies)

J Kuipers — Thu, 02 Sep 2010 17:18:43 -0400

I've read things about a inner or middle sill section. I'm still unsure to what all that refers to and now I have a big hole in the sill I can see what is and isn't there.
What I see in a cross section (behind seats) is the following:

There are two small strips approximately where the dotted line is and these are without doubt the jacking point strengtheners, though the actual jack points have long gone. I had thought this talk of a middle section would be situated along the whole sill at the dotted line. Mine had no sign of anything ever being present, neither has my employers 1976 model.

Have I been mistaken?

Julian

For when you've got 45 minutes to burn... (no replies)

jjw — Wed, 01 Sep 2010 14:18:37 -0400

Maybe you all have seen this already, but I just found it. Its the Wheeler Dealers episode on the Stag. A fun watch for fans.

For those that may not be familiar, Wheeler Dealers is a "flip this house" type of TV show... only its about classic cars. The show originates in the UK, but its shown in many markets on the Discovery Channel.

You can watch the entire episode at this link...

[www.streetfire.net]

There is even an appearance by Tony Hart...

Enjoy... Jim W. MA USA
---

Re: UK Spec fuel tank (5 replies)

Anonymous User — Wed, 01 Sep 2010 16:38:13 -0400

Just before our fateful Le Mans expedition, I at last discovered the reason
for the petrol (gas) smell in the boot (trunk).

There was an open pipe at the top of the fuel tank. So I sealed it and this
seemed to cure the problem.

However, I still have occasional episodes of cutting out, and I wondered if
I was having similar air lock problem as in other recent postings.

When the engine stops, I haven't tried opening the fuel filler to see if
there's a vacuum there, but, is this "spare" overflow pipe on the top of the
tank supposed to be sealed, or should it have a similar one way valve to
other Stags to allow air in? If so, where's all the pipework in my car gone?

In other words, what's this outlet on the top of the tank for, and should it
just be sealed?

Next job is to clean out the tank, as there's lots of crud coming through to
the underbonnet (hood) fuel filter, - unsurprising when there was an open
pipe to the tank for some considerable time!

Ken

administrivia: notes on using this list (no replies)

Anonymous User — Wed, 01 Sep 2010 01:55:15 -0400

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Re: Electronic Distributors (11 replies)

Anonymous User — Fri, 03 Sep 2010 14:34:59 -0400

I don't know anything about this person, (who seems to refurbish Stag Parts)
but this seems like a "good idea".

[cgi.ebay.co.uk]

In the USA, these people seem to do electronic distributors, based on
Pertronix parts:

[www.vintageperformance.com]

Ken

Dributor refurb (13 replies)

sam russell — Mon, 06 Sep 2010 16:31:35 -0400

Is it difficult to refurb the ditributor, to remove play/wear? Are spares available and is it a DIY job? Any special tools required?

Re: bad vibration/noise on decel (1 reply)

fmags — Mon, 30 Aug 2010 02:15:38 -0400

sorry to take up a whole digest... lol.

binding drum brake (6 replies)

fmags — Tue, 31 Aug 2010 04:27:13 -0400

While investigating my subframe mount and vibration problem, I found that my L
rear wheel is stiff to turn. Is there an automatic adjuster for the drum
brakes? Could that be the culprit? Any suggestions?

thanks,
Frank

Re: bad vibration/noise on decel (no replies)

fmags — Sun, 29 Aug 2010 21:03:12 -0400

Well, the plot thickens. Upon jacking the car today, the R rear wheel was
about to come off. two wheel studs were sheared off and floating about
behind the wheel, one of the two remaining nuts was about halfway off and
the stud was worn to about half its diameter and the last one was barely
tight allowing the whole wheel/splined shaft assembly to pivot about the one
last stud. So I think this was the cause and the subframe mounts gave way
as a result of that. At least that is fairly simple to repair as well and at
least the wheel assembly didn't pass me going down the road.

Frank Magnusson
Wichita, KS

Re:L bad vibration, noise on decel (no replies)

fmags — Fri, 27 Aug 2010 20:08:12 -0400

Thanks everybody for the suggestions; I will take a look at all of those.

Frank M.