Welcome to the Triumph Stag dot Net Forum, a free service open to any Triumph Stag enthusiast regardless of country or club affiliation. http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/index.php Tue, 07 Feb 2012 19:55:45 -0500 Phorum 5.2.15a http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34472,34472#msg-34472 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34472,34472#msg-34472
In the picture I can see that the Stag of Julian has a Terratrip trip computer. I'm thinking of buying one but I'm not sure what type of probe to buy.

What type of probe do you have Julian? How did you place it?

Does anybody have any experience in placing a wheel probe or a speedo cable probe. Thanks for any advice.

Leon

J Kuipers Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Do you mean the ROM, Repair Operations Manual? I
> have an early edition lurking on the hard drive of
> my PC. Got it off the net from some bloke who I
> think has since removed it from his site.
>
> Otherwise the following picture is how I have the
> levers on my car, generally always set to give hot
> air to the windscreen and sometimes also to the
> feet. Need more to the windscreen? Then lift the
> right hand lever up just beyond the marking
> 'Defrost' toward 'Off'.
>
> [i2.photobucket.com]
> ic/DSC00003a.jpg]]> TRLeon Triumph Stag dot Net Forum Tue, 07 Feb 2012 17:47:40 -0500 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34466,34466#msg-34466 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34466,34466#msg-34466
thx
Randy]]> 75 stag Triumph Stag dot Net Forum Mon, 06 Feb 2012 00:18:50 -0500 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34460,34460#msg-34460 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34460,34460#msg-34460
I have 12 Volts at the red /white wire of the ignition block when the key is turned. I have a permanent 12 Volts supply reaching the starter motor large terminal even when key is not being turned to the start position. All fuses OK. (I have a multimeter to check system.)

I suspect that I have done something in the wiring within 6 inches of the ignition key.

Any hints where I should start ? How does the system work ? Is there a relay somewhere I should check for input 12 Volts from the ignition switch ?

Graham]]> triumph and rover engines Triumph Stag dot Net Forum Sat, 04 Feb 2012 21:24:45 -0500 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34455,34455#msg-34455 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34455,34455#msg-34455
I'm still unable to wire in the heater/blower switch. It is fine in the two on positions, but when pushed in to the off position it blows the fuse (or equivalent) , with voltage fluctuating all over the place, but way above 12 volts. I see nothing in the wiring diagram where resistance might build that dramatically. I've checked all the grounds in the harness as best I can. I have swapped in a modern relay, and it is grounded. I've tried several different switches, all used.
Context: Neither the alternator nor starter are connected. I've not connected the aircon circuit, including the "micro-switch". From the relay, I've disconnected the starter wire. All other circuits now work fine.

What am I doing wrong?

Many thanks

John H]]> leejohn7 Triumph Stag dot Net Forum Wed, 01 Feb 2012 19:10:16 -0500 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34446,34446#msg-34446 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34446,34446#msg-34446
thanks Stuart]]> elvimto Triumph Stag dot Net Forum Wed, 01 Feb 2012 13:59:00 -0500 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34444,34444#msg-34444 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34444,34444#msg-34444
I can see someone selling 80W-90 as gearbox fluid and I also saw a reference to using standard engine oil !

What is recommended for standard use ?

Graham]]> triumph and rover engines Triumph Stag dot Net Forum Wed, 01 Feb 2012 09:00:48 -0500 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34443,34443#msg-34443 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34443,34443#msg-34443
They are one sale for $150 . [www.rimmerbros.co.uk]]]> gmin Triumph Stag dot Net Forum Tue, 07 Feb 2012 19:14:13 -0500 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34440,34440#msg-34440 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34440,34440#msg-34440
After fitting a replacement power steering pump, I now note :
Slight weap from power steering rack: left hand gaitor. Perhaps one drop every 15 minutes when engine / pump running and in use.

In retrospect i used the car for maybe a thousand miles with the power steering belt off before parking it up 2 years ago. I now assume this wasn't great practice and may not have been good for the seals. (At the time if was a quickroadside fix after a blown power steering hose on the way to the airport for a long-haul flight ! Great at the time but I shouldn't have carried on with the belt off for the subsequent weeks !)

I seem to spend my life asking about rubbish potions, bodges to keep using the cars and quick fixes so here goes:


Would doing the job properly take long ?

"I am tempted to try "Wynn's power steering leak stop" !" Is this a pointless route?

Would I do any further damage by ignoring and topping up fluid ?

Graham]]> triumph and rover engines Triumph Stag dot Net Forum Wed, 01 Feb 2012 14:06:33 -0500 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34438,34438#msg-34438 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34438,34438#msg-34438
One of the sections of trim on my teneau (sp?) lid has popped lose and I cannot get it to snap back in place.

I am speaking of the thin metal chromed (I do not believe it is brushed stainless, but what ever) that is about an inch across and vauguely shapped like a boomerang.

Does anyone have a knack for getting this dratted bit back on the car?]]> SapphireBlueStag Triumph Stag dot Net Forum Mon, 06 Feb 2012 06:21:00 -0500 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34437,34437#msg-34437 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34437,34437#msg-34437
I have been away from the site for a while and just noticed the Triumphstag.net web pages have not been displaying properly. This did not affect the Phorum (Forum).
Thanks to Richard Welty it was a quick fix, so all pages should be back up.

2012 marks the start of the eleventh year of operation for TriumphStag.net thanks to the efforts of Dave Redfern, a site that set the standard for all the other Triumph Stag web sites, and still the only site open to any enthusiast at no charge, no membership fee - only a free registration process.
Might be time to kick in a few bucks or quid to support the server that hosts this site, so why not do a late winter donation? Just click on the Donate block on the main pages or look on the Phorum for the link.

If anything else on TriumphStag.net seems out of kilter, please do let me know so I can get it fixed.

Cheers!
Glenn Merrell, TSN Admin]]> StagByTriumph Triumph Stag dot Net Forum Sat, 28 Jan 2012 21:22:22 -0500 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34425,34425#msg-34425 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34425,34425#msg-34425
I have now replaced that known poor earth. But...


I now find that the sidelights work normally but as I move the headlight switch to headlights on...... the side and tail lights go out and the instrument lights also go out.

I also note that the high beam switch does not result in high beams (whether the headlight switch is in the on or sidelight or off positions).

All fuses seem OK. I take note of the instrument lights being on during sidelights and then going off for headlights... which makes me suspect the headlight switch has become faulty in the headlight position..... but this can't explain why the highbeams don't work ????

I hate wiring diagrams and hence am hoping for advice as to what is likely !!

e.g. Does it sound like a relay problem??? Does it sound like a wiring problem at the headlights

Thanks,

Graham]]> triumph and rover engines Triumph Stag dot Net Forum Sun, 22 Jan 2012 21:37:42 -0500 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34423,34423#msg-34423 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34423,34423#msg-34423
Thks
Tim]]> Tim Oliver Triumph Stag dot Net Forum Tue, 24 Jan 2012 02:33:56 -0500 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34420,34420#msg-34420 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34420,34420#msg-34420
The summary of that thread would be that I noted a build up of gass at top of radiator after driving 120 miles at 75mph. It then happened every time I did this and after excellent advice I found very small bubbles exiting the engine via the top rad hose.
The excellent advice of all was head gasket leak and that I should be brave and make a start on it.

UPDATE:
I needed to use the car for a ten mile journey a few weeks ago and "just used it the once". This has evolved in to the car doing 20 or so ten mile trips running perfectly. The spark plugs are now all even colour and the second plug from the front on the UK drivers side is no longer "washed" / whiter. A slight gas pocket of perhaps half a litre emerged over the 300 or so miles of 10 miles trips but to be fair there is probably a slight leak of gas past the rubber rad fill washer and I've allowed this to remain to help stop a gas build up.

WITH HINDSIGHT:
I suspect my "very slight head gasket leak" has been present since I bought the car 4 years / 5000 miles ago. e.g. I probably had the same problem when I drove it 150 miles home after the purchase.
For 4 years the car's main use has been 10 miles there, ten miles back and it has needed coolant top up to the radiator fill every 300 miles or so.

I then sealed the very slight pressure weap from the rad fill cap washer and drove the cvar 120 miles at 75 mph. Then I noticed the gas build up in the rad !

I suspect that if I had not driven 120 miles , I would not have become aware of the leak and would have used the car for years to come.

WORRIED ABOUR GETTING HEADS OFF
I am concerned that I may end up in deep trouble trying to remove the head and
given my logic that the car would probably need new cam chains or something in 20000 miles anyway and
given the symptoms are of a very slight head gasket leak probably stable for 5000 miles

I am vaguely considering "going to the dark side" and using the following routine of chemical flush and ceramic "gasket sealant". I am of course petrified as to what this muck might do to my internals
i am also concerned what it might do to my future ability to reomve the heads. e.g. would it make future head removal more difficult.

see irontite ceramic sealant in the following link:

[www.ebay.co.uk]



I am very aware that I do not want to offend what I know is excellent and correct advice to get the heads off. I would definately view any attempt at sealing as a "bodge" but the aim with this Stag is enjoyable daily driver and I do suspect the engine will need cam chains or something in 20k miles.

Any thoughts ????

Graham]]> triumph and rover engines Triumph Stag dot Net Forum Tue, 24 Jan 2012 02:24:02 -0500 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34415,34415#msg-34415 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34415,34415#msg-34415
The overdrive engaged and disengaged like clockwaork for years until the car was more of less inactive for a month. I then resumed driving the car and the story during the next 20 episodes of 10 mile drives seems to be as follows:

Symptoms:
As I start the car from cold the overdrive engages and disengages perfectly.
After maybe 5 miles the overdrive engages normally but is a little slow to disengage. perhaps a 1 second delay compaired to usual.
By 10 miles the overdrive fails to disengage. Using the switch or changing from 3rd to 2nd etc then consistenly fails to disengage the overdrive.
Using reverse then become a problem but after a few tries the overdrive is gone having somehow disengaged.

I am continuuing to drive the car 10 mile distances while working but I'm worriedIi will end up stuck with the overdrive engaged. This morning I had to waste about 10 minutes continuuing to drive etc before eventually getting the overdrive off to allow reverse parking. (A little inconvenient... but better than the exploding overdrive clutch etc which the previous excellent advice warns me of !)


So what's the cause and what's the way forward ??????

Graham]]> triumph and rover engines Triumph Stag dot Net Forum Thu, 02 Feb 2012 14:10:59 -0500 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34413,34413#msg-34413 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34413,34413#msg-34413
I have for sale my beloved triumph stag, it is a 1977 mk2 stag auto in racing green would be great car for any enthusiast out there called ron as the registration reads ron ***r.

the car has been in the family for about 8 years now it was my dads car and when he died 3 years ago i inherited it from him.

over the years the car has had a lot of work done starting when my dad owned it. the car was in pretty bad shape body wise my dad had the car stripped a lot of new panels and the the car was resprayed, whilst my dad had the car it suffered the typical stag engine problems it over heated blew the heads etc the car then lay up for about 18 months,

when i inherited the car i had a choice to either drop the triumph engine and drop a rover v8 in it, i was not so silly to do such a think to such an iconic car and engine so i had the engine removed and had it fully rebuilt from top to bottom the car has only done about 100 miles since this rebuiled and is still as it was when i got it back it, the engine and gear box run great very smooth no problems at all, i also had a new uprated 5 core radiator and battery fitted at the time.

last year i kept the car off the road for some general maintanence when i found a few holes in the floor the car was fully stripped out and all bad metal work was cut out and welded with new thicker metal, this included the foot wells, boot floor, rear arches, outriggers etc then the car was fully wax oiled underneath and inside to prevent the rust coming back. i have many photos of all this work and the from when the engine was rebuilt,

i do not have a hard top for the car only as the one we got with the car was rusted beyond repair and down to lack of space i never bought another plus i never had an issue as the car only ever got used when the sun was out and the roof was down.

the best way that i can discribe the car is it is not concourse but it is also not a bad example the car is in general good all round condition drives great looks even better.

there are a few thinks on the car that could do with attention like you would expect from a classic car but these are not major just the things that you would do over time all part and parcel of owning a classic.

the hood is in good condition no rips or tears,

i really dont want to lose my stag but having a young family i do not have the time or money to warrant having the stag and i do not want it to go to ruin and lose another one of these iconic sports cars from the road,

the car has a lot of great memories for me and i want it to go to a genuine enthusiaste that is going to look after it and car for it like i have and keep it on the road for many more years to come,

i am looking for around £7500.00 for the car which considering the work that has been done and the money that has been spent over the years is a very reasonable price.

i have stacks of paperwork and history including photos reciepts etc not only from while i have have had it but also from the previous owners

the car is alarmed and immobilised has stainless steel exhaust to much to list really but plenty of paperwork to back it up,

i will provide a 12 month mot with the car as i have no worries that the car will sale through the mot as it has every year i have had it.

if anybody is interested please feel free to contact me either through here or on 07854561847

thanks]]> siellis Triumph Stag dot Net Forum Sun, 15 Jan 2012 17:54:51 -0500 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34408,34408#msg-34408 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34408,34408#msg-34408 When this loses its ability to hold its shape through age and having
thousands of revolutions put through it, the propshaft will be
impossible to balance.
PeterH]]> Anonymous User Triumph Stag dot Net Forum Thu, 12 Jan 2012 05:41:19 -0500 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34398,34398#msg-34398 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34398,34398#msg-34398 > loosen up a sticky valve or switch. Does that sound like a reasonable
> plan.... or should I actually do something ????
> Graham,
On the basis that tracing a problem when it's not being a problem is always
a problem
then I see no reason not to carry on driving.
If the o/drive stops working again it's irritating but does no damage & may
give an
opportunity to troubleshoot it. If, on the other hand, it refuses to
reverse, just remember
that this can cause terminal damage. Get out & push it back!

Regards,

Bob Vince.]]> Anonymous User Triumph Stag dot Net Forum Wed, 11 Jan 2012 18:32:33 -0500 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34395,34395#msg-34395 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34395,34395#msg-34395 >
> Graham
>
> Sounds like the overdrive was temporarily stuck in the engaged position.
The sprag clutch only freewheels while driving forwards with overdrive
engaged
& trying to reverse in this situation (o/drive engaged) will cause parts of
the drive
to try to rotate at two different speeds. In this condition the overdrive
side of the cone clutch
may slip, causing the symptoms you describe. Alternatively, if you are very
unlucky, & particularly
if you persevere with attempts to reverse,something will go very bang.
My first suspect would be the operating valve, followed by a possible
electrical problem.
Either of these could also be the cause of failure to engage the previous
day.

Regards,

Bob Vince.]]> Anonymous User Triumph Stag dot Net Forum Wed, 11 Jan 2012 17:31:14 -0500 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34392,34392#msg-34392 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34392,34392#msg-34392
Everything was normal on the Stag this morning, but after a 20 minute drive this evening I selected reverse gear (1978 manual overdrive UK Stag) and as I lifted my foot off the clutch I got a strange whirring noise and feeling like clutch slip. The clutch seems to bite at about the same point, but as the clutch bit, the reverse gear produced a mechanical whining noise and less reverse motion for the usual revs.... as if clutch slip.

the problem happened multiple times despite deselecting and reselecting more firmly / less firmly etc.

then I parked the car for 15 minutes... Came back and all functioning normally with no noise.

Further info if relevant: About 6 months ago a friend borrowed the car and got it stuck firmly in reverse. The gear lever would not budge out no matter how much force. I eventually figured out that gentle upward or downward pressure on the gear stick allowed it to easily exit reverse and then problem has never recurred. i suspect the friend put upward or downweard pressure on the stick while trying to select revers.

Also the usually great overdrive refussed to engage yesterday... but back to normal all today The clutch is 300 miles , 2 years old fitted by a stag specialist.... and problem felt like a gear problem more than a clutch problem. First gear was not affected. Probably not relevant to the question I am asking above!)


So what nightmare might I be looking at this time !!!????

Graham]]> triumph and rover engines Triumph Stag dot Net Forum Wed, 11 Jan 2012 21:04:44 -0500 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34372,34372#msg-34372 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34372,34372#msg-34372 do need a washer in the bottom of the stag inserts. I had heard of
some purveyors including them with the order.]]> bertsaxby Triumph Stag dot Net Forum Mon, 09 Jan 2012 17:07:40 -0500 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34366,34366#msg-34366 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34366,34366#msg-34366
Edward Hamer
Petaluma CA]]> Anonymous User Triumph Stag dot Net Forum Mon, 09 Jan 2012 13:14:44 -0500 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34363,34363#msg-34363 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34363,34363#msg-34363 Larry Miceli
Mount Dora, Fla
73 Triumph Stag
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry]]> Anonymous User Triumph Stag dot Net Forum Mon, 09 Jan 2012 14:56:48 -0500 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34361,34361#msg-34361 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34361,34361#msg-34361 They usually fail at low speed when turning as this is when they are
under max stress.
I think at sometime in the cars history it has had a fairly had kerb bang
PeterH]]> Anonymous User Triumph Stag dot Net Forum Mon, 09 Jan 2012 05:38:11 -0500 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34360,34360#msg-34360 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34360,34360#msg-34360
If the bonnet gets stuck for any reason like a broken cable it is a
very lengthy and exacting process to open it.

My serious advice is to forget "fix with a hammer" and get a good used one.

Peter]]> Anonymous User Triumph Stag dot Net Forum Mon, 09 Jan 2012 12:37:35 -0500 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34359,34359#msg-34359 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34359,34359#msg-34359
What am I missing or what should I be looking for?

Julian]]> J Kuipers Triumph Stag dot Net Forum Mon, 09 Jan 2012 16:41:46 -0500 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34358,34358#msg-34358 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34358,34358#msg-34358 > by defintion no fluids of any sort can be compressed.
>
> At least that is what several chemistry instructors have
> struggled to inculcate in me.

Possibly they were operating on a different definition of "compressed".
Anything will get slightly smaller if enough pressure is applied, including
steel and diamond.

[goo.gl]

Whole article is at
[goo.gl]

-- Randall]]> tr3driver Triumph Stag dot Net Forum Wed, 18 Jan 2012 00:55:31 -0500 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34357,34357#msg-34357 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34357,34357#msg-34357 > defintion no fluids of any sort can be compressed.

It has been my understanding for something like 50 years that air is a fluid.
B Air can be compressed. B Silicone brake fluid is a liquid and is therefore
incompressible, but it takes on tiny air bubbles very easily.

Phil Ethier]]> Anonymous User Triumph Stag dot Net Forum Mon, 09 Jan 2012 00:09:44 -0500 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34355,34355#msg-34355 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34355,34355#msg-34355 > through metal fatigue and always keeps new ones on the shelf.

FWIW, one of the US vintage racers has come up with uprated stub axles as
well as a spacer setup to reduce or eliminate the flex that causes them to
fatigue. Although designed for the TR2-6, the same kit should fit the Stag.
They are available through The Roadster Factory as PN HP661:
[trf.zeni.net]

-- Randall]]> tr3driver Triumph Stag dot Net Forum Sun, 08 Jan 2012 23:45:10 -0500 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34354,34354#msg-34354 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34354,34354#msg-34354
Do any of the current/former TR7/TR8 owners on this forum know whether they might be TR7/TR8 struts? I figured that would be the most likely mix-up.

Thanks in advance,

RD.
'77 Triumph Stag MkII Pimento]]> pb5300 Triumph Stag dot Net Forum Mon, 09 Jan 2012 16:45:36 -0500 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34352,34352#msg-34352 http://www.triumphstag.net/start/phorum/read.php?1,34352,34352#msg-34352 another one for $35. If the broken key cant be copied, you can get a key made
to fit the lock, although it will most likely have to be removed from the car.
It might be a good opportunity to get both door locks altered to work with the
ignition key.

Personally I would do nothing, except from ensuring I had a spare ignition
key. Haven't locked my doors in 15 years, - I don't see the point. I use a
steering wheel lock when parking on the street, and I use my boot lock to keep
things safe sometimes.

Regards,

joHn



On 09/01/2012, at 11:43 AM, Mallard wrote:

>
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
>
> All,
>
> I have only one set of keys for my Stag, a door key and an ignition key,
which also opens the fuel tank.
>
> The door key snapped in the lock recently. I was able to fish the broken bit
out but now I can't lock the doors. Is there a way to identify the key I need
and order another from anywhere, is it feasible to get a broken key copied, or
do I need new door locks?
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------
> Sent from TriumphStag.NET [www.triumphstag.net]]]> Anonymous User Triumph Stag dot Net Forum Sun, 08 Jan 2012 21:57:57 -0500