TriumphStag.NET

[stag] Review mirrors (3 replies)

Anonymous User — Thu, 17 May 2012 18:53:58 -0400

Just got some new TEX rear view mirrors for the Stag from an ebay seller

I found these are slightly different to the original ones in that there is no
offset on the back of the mirror where the the post joins the backplate. This
means that the one mirror head can be used either LH or RH, but it also means
that the mirror cannot be tilted up as much. So with the mirror swivel all the
way over to one side, I still cant adjust it enough - and I see the ground. I
will have to modify them with some washers packing out the swivel so that it
can be adjusted more.

Re: [stag] Re: A-post nightmare (no replies)

bertsaxby — Thu, 17 May 2012 16:31:52 -0400

>>Any thoughts?

How about "Egads!"?
Don't know what your skill set is but for me
that would be a job for the specialists. There could

be a good bit of load on that area even now. I certainly
wouldn't drive it about. It may well be the T-bar is the only
thing supporting the car.

Remote control door mirror - 73 Federal Stag (no replies)

leejohn7 — Thu, 17 May 2012 16:13:14 -0400

Any chance someone out there has a good mirror case and post? My glass is good, and all the cables are good, but the chrome shop tells me the pitting is so bad on the case that the pot metal base is sure to be deeply pitted, meaning they will be hard to grind out.
Would love to hear from you.
John Howard

Re: [stag] Re: A-post nightmare (1 reply)

Anonymous User — Thu, 17 May 2012 16:24:30 -0400

Its an excellent link with good photos but I do not see the bottom of
the A post where it reaches the floor panel.
It joins the top curved part of the inner sill and there is a small
tunnel shaped hole through it.
PeterH

[stag] Where do I get Stag seat belt inertia reels? (2 replies)

Anonymous User — Wed, 16 May 2012 05:14:56 -0400

I'll tell you the story later.

Right now, I need to know where to get Stag seat belt inertia reels.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
[www.flickr.com]
[www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk]
[www.mnautox.com]

[stag] administrivia: notes on using this list (no replies)

Anonymous User — Tue, 15 May 2012 01:55:21 -0400

Digest.Net mailing list "Meta FAQ"

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[stag] Radiator fan thermal switch (6 replies)

leejohn7 — Tue, 15 May 2012 14:43:40 -0400

Hi Folks

I've had a brilliant auto electrician helping on some issues. He
suggests I do away with the "ugly" Kenlowe switch and go with a single
temp switch that would replace what the parts book calls the "top plug
assembly" - the sensor that screws into the top left corner which on
my 73 MkII I presume to part of the (discarded) emmission control
system. The single wire would run to the relay. I'd have an override
switch at the dash.

This would certainly improve on the rinky-dink sensor that runs up the
rad hose, and would improve appearance. Less to go wrong.
Isn't this the way many American cars were/are wired - the fan coming
on at one given temperature? If this makes sense, what temp sensor
would you chose? 180 ? 160K?

Many thanks

JohnH

A-post nightmare (1 reply)

peterstag1 — Thu, 17 May 2012 01:19:06 -0400

I've just removed the driver's door on the Stag to get better access to the floor and I have some welding to do around the sils. Whilst I was there I was poking around the rear of the front wing/A post area to see how solid that area was when a chunk of the bottom of the A-post fell off - it was a steel plate that had just been fixed on with mastic! So I now have a bit of a gap between the bottom of the A-Post and the sill. Does anybody make replacement panels (nothing on Rimmers site), in particular just a repair panel, or is it time to get the hammer and tinsnips out!

Cheers

Peter

[stag] Stag Digest Advertisers: regular posting (no replies)

Anonymous User — Fri, 11 May 2012 01:40:23 -0400

For information on how to support the stag-digest with advertising, contact
Richard Welty, rwelty@krusty-motorsports.com

If you are a subscriber who wishes to help support the list, contributions
may be directed via PayPal to rwelty@averillpark.net

[stag] What's the availability of the radiator cowl and deflector? (5 replies)

sujitroy — Tue, 15 May 2012 12:35:21 -0400

This is for Glenn M. His emails I have bounced.

Sujit
--------------------------------------------------------------

Sujit Roy
Realtor
Altas Realty,
Direct: (408) 839-8359
Email: sujitroy@yahoo.com
Website: [RoysRealty.com]
--------------------------------------------------------------

A referral
is the best compliment to receive.

[stag] Tire in US (2 replies)

sujitroy — Thu, 10 May 2012 17:45:18 -0400

I got a flat /puncture on my wire wheel. Swapped it out for my spare. They
both have GoodYear's 185R70x14 on them.
I thought I'd put a bald spare tire in
the trunk car as a spare just in case I get another flat and until I get
Goodyear fixed.

Unfortunately, the bald spare wire wheel has a Michelin 185
x14 on it. When offered side by side, the Michelin tire sits about 1 inch
taller due to the side walls being taller.So that ideal went out the window.
The Michelin does however, fill the wheel well quite well unlike my
Goodyears.

It appears now that not many shops in the san Jose, CA have the
equipment to deal with wile wheels. I'm not sure what the difference is.
Anyway the shop I went to told me about a place call coker.com.

--------------------------------------------------------------

Sujit Roy
Realtor
Altas Realty,
Direct: (408) 839-8359
Email: sujitroy@yahoo.com
Website: [RoysRealty.com]
--------------------------------------------------------------

A referral
is the best compliment to receive.

[stag] standard payen Head gasket (10 replies)

sujitroy — Sat, 12 May 2012 16:45:58 -0400

Where can I get one from?
I bought a PAYEN head set, but used only one head
gasket. I'd like another standard one.

Sujit

--------------------------------------------------------------

Sujit Roy
Realtor
Altas Realty,
Direct: (408) 839-8359
Email: sujitroy@yahoo.com
Website: [RoysRealty.com]
--------------------------------------------------------------

A referral
is the best compliment to receive.

[stag] A question regarding cars fitted with AC (4 replies)

sujitroy — Wed, 09 May 2012 18:26:15 -0400

My car is fitted with the combo AC/heater unit. The AC does
not work, but the
vacuum pipes feeding the control mechanism do work. Is there
a way to modify
the vacuum setup so that I get hot air to come out of the front
center vents?
I only feel cold /fresh air from the center vents which Ib?m
assuming is the
expected behavior for cars fitted with AC.
B
For the vacuum activated heater
valve on the bulk-head, is the
valve closed when no vacuum is present or open?
Sujit
B
--------------------------------------------------------------
Sujit Roy Realtor
Altas Realty,
Direct: (408) 839-8359
Email:
sujitroy@yahoo.com
--------------------------------------------------------------B

A referral
is the best compliment to receive.B

[stag] Is oil pressure sensor in the engine block shared with the TR7? (4 replies)

sujitroy — Mon, 07 May 2012 17:25:45 -0400

Mine is leaking.
Sujit

--------------------------------------------------------------

Sujit Roy
Realtor
Altas Realty,
Direct: (408) 839-8359
Email: sujitroy@yahoo.com
Website: [RoysRealty.com]
--------------------------------------------------------------

A referral
is the best compliment to receive.

Re: [stag] Inlet manifold fitment (3 replies)

Anonymous User — Tue, 08 May 2012 09:22:21 -0400

Hi Leon

Never, never remove material from the flange faces (or even the bolt-holes for
that matter), they are weak enough as it is. Actually, the flanges DO tend to
distort if the fixing bolts are over-tightened, the cardboard compresses and
that is why they re prone to distort even when new. Hacking material off will
only make matters worse.

Look for the root cause of the problem elsewhere, and not to merely mitigate
the consequences as your suggestion is likely to only be a very temporary
repair.

Please follow the instructions to measure the gaps as previously described and
they should be around 0.050", also checking the underside of the manifold is
not fouling on the engine. If you still have the old gaskets from this
engine, what is their thickness? It is just conceivably possible gaskets had
been made up from a thinner material by DPO or he had fitted TR7/slant 4
gaskets which are much thinner.

The correct Payen gaskets are about 0.050" thick, I would think the gaskets
you have are much thicker than that. If the (correct thickness) gaskets are
thoroughly greased both sides before fitment and the manifold gently pressured
downwards, there should be no problem fitting them - a mallet is bound to lead
to fretting problems!

In the final analysis, much better to remove one or even both heads and do it
per Triumph's recommendation. Otherwise I can see leaking manifold gaskets
developing again, possibly with engine damage next time?

IMHO - Mike Wattam
Chairman - Triumph Stag Register
The Only Truly International Stag Club for Stag Owners
Up to date technical advice without vested interests
www.tristagreg.org
Mike@tristagreg.org
Phone: +44 (0) 1202 761051

Do you really need to send your message?
Is your message correctly titled?
Is it in simple 'text' format, without duplicate copies?
Do you really need to send back the incoming message?
Are you targeting the right person(s)?

-----Original Message-----
From: leonh
To: stag
Sent: Sun, May 6, 2012 4:43 pm
Subject: Re: RE: [stag] Inlet manifold fitment

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
Tjhanks for reposting that Mike. Maybe I am dumb but the proposed solution
does
ot appear to solve my problem...........
y problem is that there are no gaskets THIN enough to permit the holes to line
p.
ruined the Payen gaskets by trying to exert downward pressure on the
manifold.
was trying to settle the manifold into place using a rubber mallet but the
isalignment between the gaskets and the bolts was such that the gaskets broke
t the top bolt holes.
ence the Payen gaskets are too thick.
nother option I was considering was to do BOTH of the following:
Skim no more than 20 thou off the manifold faces.
lot the bolt holes as required. This would then require some time-consuming
ettling of the ports to correct any misalignment.
From an engineering point of view, it is preferable to remove a small amount
of
aterial from the flanges than to exert a lot of pressure on the manifold as
ome have done. This is because the closer the manifold is to the correct
shape,
he less stress will be exerted. In fact it is theoretically possible to exert
o bending stress on the flanges if the mating faces line up perfectly.

-------------------------------------------------------------
ent from TriumphStag.NET [www.triumphstag.net]

RE: [stag] Inlet manifold fitment (1 reply)

Anonymous User — Sun, 06 May 2012 11:43:01 -0400

Hi Leon

From the comments which have just been made, I don't think you saw my previous
e-mail on this (for whatever reason such as blocking) it is reproduced below.

Whatever you do, do not remove material from the manifold flanges (other than
very minor to flatten them) as they are weak enough already. What you
describe is absolutely typical of thin gaskets having been used before and now
trying to put together with thick gaskets. If you follow my previous comments
very carefully (see below) you should understand the problem and how to
overcome it.

It said;;;;

"We had a whole technical forum on only this single subject once,
unfortunately I seem to have lost my notes so I'll summarise as best as
possible. You can of course also search the Stag Digest archive for previous
discussions which have been frequent and voluminous!

"The Payen gaskets are superior than 'copy' or 'imitation' gaskets because
they follow the Triumph specification closely;

1. Most importantly they have relief waterways, so that when/if the gaskets
leak, they leak to the outside and you can see the leak both in the 'vee' and
then dripping under the car. (Gaskets without the relief slots will normally
leak into the cylinder(s) where firstly you won't see evidence of them leaking
until you either run short of water (overheat, seizure) or you get a hydraulic
lock if left standing for a period).
2. the compound on the faces of the gasket is quite strong, having a surface
which becomes sticky when greased and eventually sets to form a tight seal
(all other things being equal). The greasing is important to enable the
manifold to settle down between the 2 heads and into the correct position when
all the bolts are tightened.
3. their thickness is identical to Triumph specification (I believe 0.049"
when clamped to correct torque) and this is very important if the heads were
previously fitted with the correct thickness gaskets (see below)

"However, you need to bear in mind that;

"The Payen gaskets are 0.049" thick when clamped, and this is thinner than
ersatz gaskets (without drainage slots) at up to 0.070" which are on the
market. This means that if you take off the thick ersatz gaskets and try to
put on the thin Payen gaskets, you will probably not be able to get the
manifold to correctly seat down onto the heads/gaskets (there will
theoretically be a gap - however small - which may only in the end affect the
clamping pressure on the gaskets). I know some people relieve this condition
by increasing the hole size in the manifold to stop the bolts preventing the
manifold going down into place - but this of course weakens the manifold
further as well. You may be able to understand this explanation more clearly
by making a simple cross-sectional diagram of the block, the heads, inlet
manifold and fixing bolts - then you can see just how many variables there
are, and the vital need to replace the old gaskets with new gaskets of similar
thickness.

"The inlet manifold flanges are inherently quite weak. They must be flat
(they tend to 'bow' considerably when overtightened) and this can be done by
hand using a flatplate (flat steel surface), engineers blue and relieved with
a hand file used very gently. I would not advocate wholesale slashing
material off the flange faces as is practised by machine shops, as this WILL
reduce the strength of the flanges still further.

"It is probable that if your heads have had material indiscriminately slashed
off their gasket faces (= bottom deck) many times, it will be difficult to
impossible to correctly align the manifold with the head(s). This is just one
of the reasons why Triumph recommended no material to be removed from the
bottom deck of the heads.

"I recommend you fit the inlet manifold 'dry' to the heads without the
gaskets, putting the bolts in quite a few threads so there is some location of
the manifold, without them nipping down the manifold. Then, using your body
weight (or somebody else's!) press down on the manifold. Using a feeler gauge
go round each flange in turn, measuring the gap. If the gap is less than
0.050" you can use the recommended Payen gaskets. If more, find ersatz
gaskets which are slightly thicker than your measured gap. If you have widely
differing gaps and you know your manifold is flat, either the heads are skewed
on the block, of the manifold is 'grounding' on the cylinder block, either at
the core-hole or the water pump cover and these can be gently relieved with a
file - this is a common but little-known problem.

"Now a bit of secondary work on the heads and manifold.
. Check to make sure all the bolt-holes still have good threads by inserting
a known good bolt to see how loose it is in the thread
. check the same threads to remove all burrs and thread lifting from the head
surface - if overtightened previously there will be material clearly standing
proud of the general surface level and this can stop the manifold seating
properly.
. check by inspecting the old gaskets, that the waterways in the heads and
the manifold will still align reasonably well to allow water flow. If
necessary remove burrs and casting imperfections from heads and manifold
without removing enough material to weaken the manifold flanges. Note that
these slots are vital for water circulation through the engine and
misalignment is common!

"If after all this you still cannot get satisfactory gaps at the manifold
flanges, it is time to consider removing both heads to enable correct sealing.
But this is definitely a last resort!

"Lastly, always fit the gaskets using general purpose grease, as this is the
only way you can expect the gaskets and manifold to align properly. After
your engine is bolted back together and filled with water, do a pressure test
on the cooling system to make sure there are no leaks from the manifold.
""

IMHO - Mike Wattam
Chairman - Triumph Stag Register
The Only Truly International Stag Club for Stag Owners
Up to date technical advice without vested interests
www.tristagreg.org
Mike@tristagreg.org
Phone: +44 (0) 1202 761051

Do you really need to send your message?
Is your message correctly titled?
Is it in simple 'text' format, without duplicate copies?
Do you really need to send back the incoming message?
Are you targeting the right person(s)?

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-stag@digest.net [mailto:owner-stag@digest.net]On Behalf Of
> leonh
> Sent: 05 May 2012 05:42
> To: stag@digest.net
> Subject: [stag] Inlet manifold fitment
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> ------------------
>
> I know this is not a new topic but I would appreciate any
> current thoughts.
> I removed the inlet manifold but did not touch the heads.
> In attempting to refit the inlet manifold I could not get the
> bolts to line up.
> Asking around, people have said that the heads have probably
> been skimmed, and standard gaskets used instead of thick ones.
> However the heads have not been disturbed and yet the
> manifold was fitted.....................I was told that the
> manifold would have been bolted to the heads before torquing
> down the heads. That would have added significant compression
> stress into the manifold casting and that CAN'T be good for it!
> So the best option now seems to be to skim the inlet manifold
> faces. It is easy to remove metal and much harder to add it
> back on, so I am wondering if anybody has any comments on
> this before I remove metal.
> I will measure the gaps with no gaskets in place to determine
> approx how much metal to remove.
>
> Cheers,
> Leon H.
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------
> Sent from TriumphStag.NET [www.triumphstag.net]

Turn Left at the Pacific - get the book! (no replies)

StagByTriumph — Sat, 05 May 2012 16:38:57 -0400

Hello All,

It is now coming up on 3 years since the epic and historic 18,000 mile Triumph Stag (Uncle Jack) drive was kicked off at Classic Motorsports HQ in Daytona Beach Florida.

This first of its kind journey is completely journaled in over 300 picture filled pages by John Macartney in his book, Turn Left at the Pacific, is published and printed by Joe Pawlak's (of Illinois Sports Owners Association fame - restorer of Uncle Jack) company ViData Print.

This includes the ever popular drive on the "Tail of the Dragon", numerous and nervous and hilarious US/Canadian Border crossings, and much more, a joy to read and relive a full range of emotions experienced over 102 days of epic travel.

Supplies of this once only printing book are running low, so order yours now for your Triumph historical book collection before they run out at
Standard-Triumph-Books.co.uk

[www.standard-triumph-books.co.uk]

This site has full glowing reviews from the leading editors of Triumph World and Hemming Motor News, and several world wide renown Triumph clubs and club officers.

Get yours today to enjoy before supplies are completely gone!! US orders are shipped from within the USA to keep your delivery costs low.

Cheers!

Glenn Merrell, TSN Admin
Exec Director of the Triumph Trans AmeriCan Charity Drive 2009

[stag] failing brakes revissited (1 reply)

Anonymous User — Sat, 05 May 2012 18:01:43 -0400

Hi all

A few weeks ago, I emailed the group regarding my brakes seemingly failing
overnight. I mentioned that the only thing I'd done recently, was to change
a belt on the alternator.

Well for several reasons, I never got chance to look into why they had
failed, until today.

I removed the cap off the master cylinder reservoir, and the rear one was
empty, i.e. the one nearest the bulk head.

We topped it up, then went about bleeding the brakes. Did the rear two,
then moved on to the passenger front, I started to jack it up, then gasped!!

The bloody jack had gone straight through the chassis!! It was the section
that runs from rear to front, just by where it joins to the chassis section
that runs from left to right. The hole is around about five inches long.

I obviously don't know which PO bodged that part up, but I would love to
meet him and give him a slap.
Basically, it must have previously been rotten there and patched up.

When I pulled the debris out of the chassis, it wasn't actually metal, but
filler, and above the filler, was what looked like several brillo pads (wire
wool)!! I presume he must have stuffed them in there to fill the gap, then
just used filler. Can you believe it? What a tosser!!!

We managed to finish bleeding the brakes without jacking it up, and they are
now fine.

Anyway, the chassis aside, I'm still left with several questions as to what
the original problem was with the brakes.

Not fully understanding the braking system, I'm curious as to what happened
originally to make them fail completely.

If one of the reservoirs was empty, (the rear, presumably for the front
brakes) why did the pedal go to the floor? Shouldn't that still be
operating the rear brakes? There was still fluid in the front reservoir.

I will go back to it tomorrow and check that they are still working, but
hopefully they will be.

Now I'm left with the problem of my new hole, J

Terry

Inlet manifold fitment (5 replies)

leonh — Thu, 17 May 2012 10:12:34 -0400

I know this is not a new topic but I would appreciate any current thoughts.
I removed the inlet manifold but did not touch the heads.
In attempting to refit the inlet manifold I could not get the bolts to line up.
Asking around, people have said that the heads have probably been skimmed, and standard gaskets used instead of thick ones.
However the heads have not been disturbed and yet the manifold was fitted.....................I was told that the manifold would have been bolted to the heads before torquing down the heads. That would have added significant compression stress into the manifold casting and that CAN'T be good for it!
So the best option now seems to be to skim the inlet manifold faces. It is easy to remove metal and much harder to add it back on, so I am wondering if anybody has any comments on this before I remove metal.
I will measure the gaps with no gaskets in place to determine approx how much metal to remove.

Cheers,
Leon H.

[stag] Morning Reminder Please vote Triumph Stag (no replies)

Anonymous User — Fri, 04 May 2012 08:25:18 -0400

Morning reminder, Please vote on all your devices for the Blue Triumph Stag
with Flamingo. The Toyota is gaining on me. I promise to never be a politician
if I win this poster
www.us129photos.com

[stag] Stag Digest Advertisers: regular posting (no replies)

Anonymous User — Fri, 04 May 2012 01:40:31 -0400

[stag] Oil filter Spin on adapter (5 replies)

sujitroy — Sat, 05 May 2012 12:33:50 -0400

Moss in the US has one listed for the TR7 at $44, I'm assuming it will fit the
Stag. Can anyone confirm this?

Sujit

--------------------------------------------------------------

Sujit Roy
Realtor
Altas Realty,
Direct: (408) 839-8359
Email: sujitroy@yahoo.com
Website: [RoysRealty.com]
--------------------------------------------------------------

A referral
is the best compliment to receive.

[stag] Fwd: Please vote for my Triumph Stag, I want to win a free poster!!!!!! (2 replies)

Anonymous User — Wed, 02 May 2012 18:22:50 -0400

Okay people, let's help Doug get his poster. You "vote" by clicking on
the stars below the image. You can only vote once.

-------- Original Message --------

Guys,
I need your help to win a free poster please go
to [www.us129photos.com] vote for me,
I'll win a free poster!!!! I am in my blue Stag
with the flamingo on the roof about 2/3rds down
the page. Please VOTE!!!!! I have attached a
photo of my blue Stag in case you do not know
what it looks like.

[stag] administrivia: notes on using this list (no replies)

Anonymous User — Tue, 01 May 2012 01:55:20 -0400

[stag] Stag takes on Road Atlanta (no replies)

bertsaxby — Mon, 30 Apr 2012 16:07:03 -0400

I went to Road Atlanta over the weekend for "The Mitty",
historical races.
Triumph was the featured marque this year
and as such it was hosted by Kas
Kastner. Kas led the
Triumphs on a two lap parade in his prototype TR250-K
about
midday Saturday. Yours truly just barely ended up on this
snippit found
on YouTube, [www.youtube.com]
at the 1:33 mark.
Hopefully more footage of this great event will show
up in the coming days,
google Mitty 2012. If you've never been
to Road Atlanta, or historic
races, you owe it to yourself.
Seeing vintage Triumph racing in action is
very cool indeed.
Someday I hope to make it to Goodwood.

[stag] Hi (no replies)

aboardepsilon — Sat, 28 Apr 2012 08:47:23 -0400

wow this is awesome give it a look [t.co]

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[stag] Stag Digest Advertisers: regular posting (no replies)

Anonymous User — Fri, 27 Apr 2012 01:40:11 -0400

[stag] hello (no replies)

aboardepsilon — Fri, 27 Apr 2012 01:17:24 -0400

wow can you look at this [www.ca15news.net]

~*Advertisement

[stag] hello (no replies)

aboardepsilon — Fri, 27 Apr 2012 01:17:24 -0400

wow can you look at this [www.ca15news.net]

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[stag] Soft-top special bolts availability (5 replies)

sujitroy — Sun, 13 May 2012 18:21:00 -0400

Are these shared with other Triumphs?
Also are the original type still
available? I've seen hex headed machined bolts?

Sujit

--------------------------------------------------------------

Sujit Roy
Realtor
Altas Realty,
Direct: (408) 839-8359
Email: sujitroy@yahoo.com
Website: [RoysRealty.com]
--------------------------------------------------------------

A referral
is the best compliment to receive.