TriumphStag.NET

Re: [stag] Fuel Tank Sealing (1 reply)

Anonymous User — Fri, 17 May 2013 22:12:49 -0400

Hi Guys,

My tank had the usual age related rust and pinholes, weeping a small amount
of fuel into the boot area so it smelled of petrol. I considered cleaning
and soldering , but the issue was mainly from moisture inside the tank.
Which soldering won't fix. So really needed an internal sealer. So about 10
years ago I used the POR15 Tank seal kit and it work great.

[www.por15.com]

The kit has everything you need, including cleaner, a pre-treating metal
stabiliser, an internal tank sealer and an external tank coating. The
instructions are clear and step you through the process.

The internal tank sealer actually foams up to force itself into all the
cavities and coats the inside of the tank with a strong silver membrane. So
once cleaned and pre-treated you have to tape over all the pin holes and
seal up the inlet/outlet pipes and the gauge sensor hole, then poor it down
the filler and swirl it round. It then activates and does its work. You then
poor out the excess, which once activated cannot be stored. It is single use
only. However, It is amazing stuff. I canned the excess, but it popped the
lid and then hardened into a tin sized plug of hard plastic.

Then you carefully coat the outside with the Black POR15. It penetrates any
residual scale and seems to even work into the metal. Again it is
environment activated and finishes to a nice strong back gloss. Watch out
for dust and brush bubbles.

If required they also have a putty, which I bought thinking the holes would
not seal but did not need it.

They provide safety instructions and you do need to be careful when using as
it won't wash off the skin. It has a great ability to penetrate scale and
metal and seems to almost go into the metal crystals. So it does the same on
skin and you if you get some on your skin you virtually need to grow it out.

POR15 is magic on rust and for metal protection. I have used on several
projects and it is easy and lasts. The finish is better than two pack and is
virtually indestructible.

So that was 10 years ago and it looks like I did it yesterday.

Regards,

Joe

Sydney, Australia

Re: [stag] Soft-top question (1 reply)

Anonymous User — Fri, 17 May 2013 14:15:09 -0400

The back hoop or rail has dropped out of the retaining clips.
It has then fallen towards the rear and gets caught under the tonneau edge.
So to get it all out you will need to lift the lowest hoop up to the
back of the B post hoop which should pull it forward, and then you can
lift the whole thing up and out. You need a good position and strong
hands.
The go to work on those over centre hook plates to make sure they hold
the back rail up in future.
Peter H

[stag] Stag Digest Advertisers: regular posting (no replies)

Anonymous User — Fri, 17 May 2013 01:41:04 -0400

For information on how to support the stag-digest with advertising, contact
Richard Welty, rwelty@krusty-motorsports.com

If you are a subscriber who wishes to help support the list, contributions
may be directed via PayPal to rwelty@averillpark.net

Soft-top question (no replies)

Alistair — Thu, 16 May 2013 16:29:43 -0400

I have a '73 Stag project which has been progressing very slowly. I finally started work on the rear suspension and brakes last weekend, and in trying to get to the top shock absorber nut, found that I must have stowed the roof incorrectly. Trying to get it back up again to access the shock absorber, I find that the lower edge at the back of the roof (below the plastic window) won't fit past the hinge. I don't recall forcing it down, but I could be mistaken. The car sat for 30 years before I bought it, with the hard top in place, so the hood was folded. A while ago I removed the hard top and pulled the soft top up. I then decided to fold it back to let the smell escape from the interior (thanks, rodents!), but did so without any instructions. Any suggestions to get the roof back up? Is there a lever or catch I am missing? I would ideally like to avoid any damage as the roof is in surprisingly good condition!

Thanks in advance for any thoughts or advice.
Alistair

[stag] Re: stag-digest V4 #4400 (no replies)

Anonymous User — Thu, 16 May 2013 05:53:54 -0400

unsuscribe

[stag] administrivia: notes on using this list (no replies)

Anonymous User — Wed, 15 May 2013 01:55:21 -0400

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Found this on u tube (1 reply)

triumphstag1 — Thu, 16 May 2013 15:40:11 -0400

HI Thought you would enjoy this.
Looks like a PR film made about the Triumph factory and their design testing and build of Triumph cars.
Amazing to see all sorts of Triumphs rolling off the production line

[www.youtube.com]

enjoy

[stag] Stag Cooling reply (3 replies)

sagreenwood — Sat, 18 May 2013 06:47:49 -0400

Thanks to all who replied to my post
I agree that it would be better to fit
a Mk II inlet manifold but I have just
rebuilt my engine and installed it in
the car and I'm reluctant to disturb the
inlet manifold even though the
engine has not yet run.
I am going to try to fit a 12v normally closed
solenoid valve in the bypas line
so that I can switch the bypass flow off
when the thermostat opens.
Before the engine blew a head gasket in 2003 ( yes
it's taken me 10 years, 8
years thinking about it and 2 years doing it) I was
running the engine with the
bypass closed off and two 1/8 ins holes drilled
in the thermostat to allow water

to circulate before the thermostat opened.
The engine was a little slow to warm
up but in SoCal this is no problem....
it would be no good in a cold climate.

I was a bit disappointed that nobody
on the list had any experience with oil
coolers but I do agree with Peter
Howell that a cooler would only help a little
since most of the heat is in
the water.

It's a pity that there is no information on exactly how the
water circulates
through the engine block, heads and manifold. As Randall
implies drawing water
off the rear of the right hand head might do more harm
than good.

Stuart, I live in Rancho Penasquitos which is up interstate 15
about 20 miles
north of

downtown San Diego and about 10 miles south of
Escondido. Sounds like you live
mcuh further north
Stuart A Greenwood

Re: [stag] Fuel Tank Sealing (1 reply)

Anonymous User — Tue, 14 May 2013 13:30:47 -0400

How did you solder sheet metal to the bottom of the fuel tank

Do you clear paint and heat the tank with a blowtorch around the
solder area then add the repair and solder the edges?

PeterH

Re: [stag] Fuel Tank Sealing (1 reply)

Anonymous User — Mon, 13 May 2013 10:27:20 -0400

Try these people
[www.fuel-tank-renu.co.uk]
PeterH

Fuel Tank Sealing (2 replies)

AlexC — Mon, 13 May 2013 17:45:36 -0400

Hi,

Has anybody tried to reseal the fuel tank using a 'slosh' type kit? My tank has pinholes at the lowest corner and I have temporarily repaired it from the outside. Looking for a more permanent repair and Frost Restoration do a kit for internal use. Looks like it would cost about £45 or so which is a lot better than £370 for a new tank.

Any experience???

Thanks

[stag] Stag engine on eBay! (no replies)

Anonymous User — Sun, 12 May 2013 20:37:03 -0400

Here it is, with photos and full description:

[www.ebay.com]
DME:L:LCA:MOTORS:1123&vxp=mtr

[stag] Rebuilt Stag Short Block for sale (no replies)

Anonymous User — Sun, 12 May 2013 10:24:18 -0400

Fellow Stag owners:

I have just finished assembling a really nice Stag short block. It is ready
for shipping.

It includes:

-- New County 040 pistons (higher compression that Federal engines
-- Grant rings
-- reground crank; 020 on rod and mains
-- NOS Vandervell crank bearings
-- NOS Vndervell and AE rod bearings
-- NOS Vandervell thrust washers
-- New water pump spindle bushing
-- Balanced rods/crank/pistons

For a negotiated extra price, I can install the jackshaft and an NOS 6-vane
water pump.

The pistons alone were $350. The machine work was at least double that.

I don't expect to get out of the engine what I have in it, but I will accept a
close reasonable offer.

If it doesn't sell, on to eBay it goes.

I you are restoring your Stag and want it original, this is a great and
inexpensive way to get the engine sorted.

I can palletize and load on to your truck.

Thanks,
Richard Truett
Rover827@aol.com
Detroit, Michigan

Re: [stag] Re: Front Strut Rut (no replies)

Anonymous User — Fri, 10 May 2013 15:09:02 -0400

The Front Springs we offer at Ldpart are 15 1/2 inches free length and
are made to original Triumph Specification (except ours are powder
coated).
PeterH

Re: [stag] Re: Front Strut Rut (no replies)

bertsaxby — Fri, 10 May 2013 12:33:40 -0400

A millimeter is actually a big distance. More than enough to make a clunking
noise.

________________________________
From: rossk1

To: stag@digest.net
Sent: Friday, May 10, 2013
12:23 PM
Subject: [stag] Re: Front Strut Rut
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---

Thanks for the replies so far. Stuart, I will take a look at the
anti-roll link clearance when I get home today, but I have to agree with Miki
that the shocks are the culprit. And to RD, according to Rimmers, who measured
them after my email, the Gaz, Koni and Spax shock pistons are within
millimeters of each other in total extension length. With that information,
and the fact that the new springs are the same size as the old ones, I am left
with wondering which component might be suffering from lack of BL QA? Surely
the springs are all the same, and in my case they actually are. Some minor
difference in the strut barrel length would not be a factor in the spring
compression, which is pretty much a function of the insert piston length. I'm
thinking about finding some shorter springs...
-------------------------------------------------------------
Sent from
TriumphStag.NET [www.triumphstag.net]

Re regestering a stag (no replies)

paul5tag — Fri, 10 May 2013 10:50:24 -0400

Hi All ,Tried to re-register my car on the registry but it wont let me as it is already on by the previous owner has anyone else had this problem or am i just not going about it incorrectly . any advice welcome. Cheers Paul

[stag] Stag Digest Advertisers: regular posting (no replies)

Anonymous User — Fri, 10 May 2013 01:41:23 -0400

Re: [stag] Confirmation of dimension needed, please (1 reply)

Anonymous User — Thu, 09 May 2013 19:43:49 -0400

The pedal box is common but not when the pedals are are in it which I
think is what is being referred to.
PeterH

[stag] FW: (no replies)

Anonymous User — Wed, 08 May 2013 05:18:21 -0400

[chopper.sakura.ne.jp]

[stag] FW: (no replies)

Anonymous User — Wed, 08 May 2013 05:18:21 -0400

[chopper.sakura.ne.jp]

Dimension confirmation had, anyone want to verify? (2 replies)

SapphireBlueStag — Tue, 07 May 2013 12:25:43 -0400

Just spent about an hour chatting with Sujit, thanks Sujit!

Again: I am looking to see a tape measure laid down on the point where the brake master cylinded meets the booster.

Push the tip of the measuring tape into the fender wall, UNDER the drain lip.

The resivour makes a neat diamond point marking the centerline of the master cylinder.

Sujit came up with 9 3/4".

Which:

A) Reflects my memory from more than a decade ago, when I thought that I was moving my pedal box over 1 1/2" (my current measurement is 8 3/8ths)

B) Is OBTAINABLE against the induction set that my Datusn engine has.

I'd be delighted to see any other measurements. This is a non-trivial escapade I am contemplating, and my Stag is my only car, so I can't mess around with this, I need to be ready for the eventualities.

Re: [stag] Confirmation of dimension needed, please (2 replies)

sujitroy — Tue, 07 May 2013 23:53:54 -0400

Kevin,
call me tonight, at the number below between 8 and 9pm.
I'll
take measurements at that time. I have an auto of that helps.

Sujit

--------------------------------------------------------------

Sujit Roy
Realtor
Altas Realty,
Direct: (408) 839-8359
Email: sujitroy@yahoo.com
Website: [RoysRealty.com]
--------------------------------------------------------------

A referral
is the best compliment to receive.

________________________________
From:
SapphireBlueStag
To: stag@digest.net
Sent:
Monday, May 6, 2013 10:09 AM
Subject: [stag] Confirmation of dimension needed,
please
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---

Hey guys,

My previous request for a dimension yielded two substantially
different readings.

Sujit: Please measure from the top of the fender wall,
place the tip of your measure UNDER the drain channel and measure across from
there to the center of your master cylinder.

Well, actually, anyone who can
help, follow that protocol.

It is looking very much as if I moved my pedal
box over a whole TWO INCHES and that is going to be impossible to gain back
while I have the current induction.

Does anyone have a spare pedal box, no
pedals needed, from an LHD?

I may be doing quite a bit of work to get this to
come together.

Confirmation of the stock dimension would be much appreciated.
-------------------------------------------------------------
Sent from
TriumphStag.NET [www.triumphstag.net]

Confirmation of dimension needed, please (no replies)

SapphireBlueStag — Mon, 06 May 2013 13:09:08 -0400

Hey guys,

My previous request for a dimension yielded two substantially different readings.

Sujit: Please measure from the top of the fender wall, place the tip of your measure UNDER the drain channel and measure across from there to the center of your master cylinder.

Well, actually, anyone who can help, follow that protocol.

It is looking very much as if I moved my pedal box over a whole TWO INCHES and that is going to be impossible to gain back while I have the current induction.

Does anyone have a spare pedal box, no pedals needed, from an LHD?

I may be doing quite a bit of work to get this to come together.

Confirmation of the stock dimension would be much appreciated.

Front Strut Rut (4 replies)

rossk1 — Fri, 10 May 2013 12:23:11 -0400

Hello list, I'm having a little issue with my new Gaz front shocks and springs from Rimmers.

I recently began replacing all the rubber bushes with blue poly, and also purchsed the Gaz shock and springs kit from Rimmers. Trouble began when I could not get the new front springs, which are the same size as the old ones, compressed enough to mount on the struts with new inserts. At the full range of extension, the new Gaz inserts are over an inch shorter than the old oil shocks. I finally had to have them mounted on the struts professionally. The pros did not think they looked right (springs too tight). After getting them back on the car, they tend to make a clunking noise when going over a bump or pothole, and yes, I've tried multiple stiffness settings on the shocks:(. Has anyone else had this experience? Rimmer's excuse was something vague about British Leyland quality control. I had to add several washers to the bottom of the strut cylinder (inside) to compensate for the inserts being a little short for the struts as well. They are the correct part number for the Stag. It just seems to me that the springs should be shorter.

Please refer to the following blog entry for pictures of the fully-assembled struts. Any advice or comisserating would be appreciated. Thanks, Ross

Trouble in MacPherson Strut Land

Re: [stag] Re: Dimension needed, please. (no replies)

sujitroy — Mon, 06 May 2013 11:00:30 -0400

6 inches

--------------------------------------------------------------
Sujit Roy Realtor
Altas Realty,
Direct: (408) 839-8359
Email:
sujitroy@yahoo.com
Website: [RoysRealty.com]
--------------------------------------------------------------

A referral
is the best compliment to receive.

________________________________
From:
SapphireBlueStag
To: stag@digest.net
Sent:
Sunday, May 5, 2013 9:25 PM
Subject: [stag] Re: Dimension needed, please.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---

Good heavens.

How difficult is this?
-------------------------------------------------------------
Sent from
TriumphStag.NET [www.triumphstag.net]

Re: [stag] Re: Dimension needed, please. (no replies)

sujitroy — Mon, 06 May 2013 11:00:30 -0400

Re: [stag] Dimension needed, please. (no replies)

sujitroy — Mon, 06 May 2013 01:13:25 -0400

Hello Kevin,
I have an auto, but I measured approx 6 inch from the fender to
where the center of the MC would go.

Sujit

--------------------------------------------------------------

Sujit Roy
Realtor
Altas Realty,
Direct: (408) 839-8359
Email: sujitroy@yahoo.com
Website: [RoysRealty.com]
--------------------------------------------------------------

A referral
is the best compliment to receive.

________________________________
From:
SapphireBlueStag
To: stag@digest.net
Sent:
Saturday, May 4, 2013 8:39 PM
Subject: [stag] Dimension needed, please.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---

Hey guys,

You know me, I'm the dingbat that installed a Datsun Z engine
in my Stag.

Actually, it is a good rig.

Mine was an automatic, and I used a
4sp overdrive automatic from a Nissan Maxima.

But now I am hankering from a
manual. One of you, I regret that I don't remember your name, sold me a set
of left hand drive pedals for a manual.

The stinker: the induction and air
cleaner on the Z engine conflicted with the brake master. I moved it over
to make clearance. Over a decade ago, mind you.

Now I am trying to figure
out how to recover that clearance. I honestly do not know how far I moved
my pedal box to the left. I could tear things up and find out.

Or I could
ask a few of you to go out to your Stag and lay a tape measure on it.

Place
the end of the measure against the vertical wall of the fender and the tape
across the master. Right where the resivior sits is a diamond point.
Please give me a dimension from the left fender wall to that center point on
the master cylinder.

Thanks.

Kevin
-------------------------------------------------------------
Sent from
TriumphStag.NET [www.triumphstag.net]

[stag] Stag Cooling (5 replies)

sagreenwood — Fri, 17 May 2013 23:48:42 -0400

Having overhauled and installed my TV8 I wish to make sure that the cooling
system is as good as it can be.
SInce a lot of the engine heat enters the oil
I wanted to fit an oil cooler. I
bought an oil cooler kit from Rimmers which
uses a modifed oil transfer housing
so the oil feeds to and from the
cooler can be taken from it. Unfortinately
this housing doean't fit the Stag
since the oil pipe connectors hit the exhaust
manifold. I have been in
contact with Rimmers and they investgiated this problem
and discovered that
the housing they sell doesn't fit a Stag but it OK for a
TR7. If you go on
the Rimmers web site you will see that the kit I bought is not
longer
available and they list a new transer housing RB7391STAG which at the
moment
is not available. Rimmers also list an oil cooler kit which uses a spin
on
oil filter adaptor and a separate oil cooler connection adaptor which mates
up to the

spin on adaptor, RS1025. Whne I enquired about buying the two
adaptors RImmers
were a little coy about this and I now notice that their web
site lists a spin
on oil filter adaptor for use with an oil cooler RB7048STAG
which is also not
available.
My question to the list is has anyone ever got
the RS1025 kit from Rimmers?
If anyone has fitted an oil cooler I would be
interested to know what they used
to get the oil to and from the engine.
Changing the subject slightly there has been passed correspondence on the list
about water thermostats and cabin heater connections. My car is a MK 1 with a
Mk1 inlet manifold and it needs a special thermostat that closes off the
radiator bypass port when the thermostat opens. I have never seen such a
thermostat. Was there ever one or is the bypass always open on the Mk 1?
I am
investigating the idea of fitting a solenoid on/off valve in the bypass
line
so I can manually close it off.
There are suggestions about (a) taking the
heater off take from both the left
and right heads and (b) that the ROM shows
the wrong hose layout , i.e. the feed
from the left hand head going to the
top connection on the fire wall instead of
the bottom. To me both of these
are irrelevant when the heater valve is closed
and this is 90% of the time
since I live in Southern California.
So what about the idea of taking an off
take from the right hand head and
feeding it back to the pump inlet by teeing
into the line coming back from the
heater and doing away with the bypass
hose? This might stop water flowing
through the heater when the heater valve
is open and hence the feed from the
right hand head might have to have a
separate feed into the pump inlet.. say
via a fitting on the steel pipe that
carries the water from the radiator to the
pump.
Stuart A Greenwood

[stag] Parting out mechanical perfect Stag (no replies)

Anonymous User — Sun, 05 May 2013 18:24:15 -0400

In the coming weeks, these parts will be available.

Complete J-Type Overdrive conversion kit.
Contents:

Rebuilt J-Type overdrive transmission from Quantum Mechanics (3,000 miles)
Shifter and electric parts
Pedal Box
Driveshaft
Crossmember (with new mounts)
Engine rear mounting plate
Flywheel (resurfaced)
Clutch kit (3,000 miles)
Wood trim for console
All Hydraulics (3000 miles)

This is a complete kit. Everything needed to convert a Stag automatic to a
Stag manual with overdrive.

All parts are nearly new with just 3,000 or so miles. Everything works
perfectly.

Price is: $5,000 + shipping. And comes with a 1 year warranty.

Next up: Comes a rebuilt and Stag V8. Plenty of great parts on this with high
compression pistons, Holley carb and more. Details in a few weeks. This
turnkey engine will be $7,500 and come with a 1-year warranty.

And then I will have a very nice Stag body with all the hard work done.
Rebuilt suspension system, painted engine bay and truck. Really nice. Price
will be $3,500.

Thanks,
Richard Truett

Dimension needed, please. (7 replies)

SapphireBlueStag — Tue, 07 May 2013 12:28:26 -0400

Hey guys,

You know me, I'm the dingbat that installed a Datsun Z engine in my Stag.

Actually, it is a good rig.

Mine was an automatic, and I used a 4sp overdrive automatic from a Nissan Maxima.

But now I am hankering from a manual. One of you, I regret that I don't remember your name, sold me a set of left hand drive pedals for a manual.

The stinker: the induction and air cleaner on the Z engine conflicted with the brake master. I moved it over to make clearance. Over a decade ago, mind you.

Now I am trying to figure out how to recover that clearance. I honestly do not know how far I moved my pedal box to the left. I could tear things up and find out.

Or I could ask a few of you to go out to your Stag and lay a tape measure on it.

Place the end of the measure against the vertical wall of the fender and the tape across the master. Right where the resivior sits is a diamond point.

Please give me a dimension from the left fender wall to that center point on the master cylinder.

Thanks.

Kevin