TriumphStag.NET

Re: [stag] Review mirrors

Anonymous User — Thu, 17 May 2012 18:53:58 -0400

Great! The value of posting to this list clearly shown once again

Peter, put me down for 2 of those plus a set of those awesome timing chains
you have

Regards

joHn

On 18/05/2012, at 8:49 AM, Peter Howells wrote:

> The tool used to make the hemispherical bump in the back of the mirror has
distorted over time meaning the hemisphere is not as true as it should be.
> That apart the rest of it is as original.
> At Ldpart we offer black plastic rings to fit between the stem and mirror
head to increase the articulation of the mirror.
> Part YKC2961INS
>
> I cannot see any circumstance that will persuade Tex to make a new tool.

Re: [stag] Review mirrors

Anonymous User — Thu, 17 May 2012 18:44:43 -0400

The tool used to make the hemispherical bump in the back of the mirror
has distorted over time meaning the hemisphere is not as true as it
should be.
That apart the rest of it is as original.
At Ldpart we offer black plastic rings to fit between the stem and
mirror head to increase the articulation of the mirror.
Part YKC2961INS

I cannot see any circumstance that will persuade Tex to make a new tool.

PeterH

Re: [stag] Review mirrors

leejohn7 — Thu, 17 May 2012 17:28:33 -0400

I have new Tex mirrors as well, and also find that I cannot properly adjust
them. I was hoping to place one over the remote mirror holes until I got
that chromed and thought that the difficulty in adjustment was due to poor
placement. So, while I wait and hope to work out something with the remote,
I'll have to fuss with washers as you suggest. Not very elegant. I'm
surprised that the Stag suppliers sell these as good "original style"
replacements.
John

On Thu, May 17, 2012 at 1:37 PM, John Eklund
wrote:

> Just got some new TEX rear view mirrors for the Stag from an ebay seller
>
> I found these are slightly different to the original ones in that there is
> no
> offset on the back of the mirror where the the post joins the backplate.
> This
> means that the one mirror head can be used either LH or RH, but it also
> means
> that the mirror cannot be tilted up as much. So with the mirror swivel all
> the
> way over to one side, I still cant adjust it enough - and I see the
> ground. I
> will have to modify them with some washers packing out the swivel so that
> it
> can be adjusted more.
>

John

--
*

*

[stag] Review mirrors

Anonymous User — Thu, 17 May 2012 16:37:55 -0400

Just got some new TEX rear view mirrors for the Stag from an ebay seller

I found these are slightly different to the original ones in that there is no
offset on the back of the mirror where the the post joins the backplate. This
means that the one mirror head can be used either LH or RH, but it also means
that the mirror cannot be tilted up as much. So with the mirror swivel all the
way over to one side, I still cant adjust it enough - and I see the ground. I
will have to modify them with some washers packing out the swivel so that it
can be adjusted more.

Re: [stag] Re: A-post nightmare

bertsaxby — Thu, 17 May 2012 16:31:52 -0400

>>Any thoughts?

How about "Egads!"?
Don't know what your skill set is but for me
that would be a job for the specialists. There could

be a good bit of load on that area even now. I certainly
wouldn't drive it about. It may well be the T-bar is the only
thing supporting the car.

Re: [stag] Re: A-post nightmare

peterstag1 — Thu, 17 May 2012 16:24:30 -0400

All, here are some pictures of the stag I took tonight. To make it clearer I also removed metal from the A-Post and the inner sill. Whilst there is rot there, it is very localised. It looks like it was probably a water leak over many years.

I don't have time to set up a pretty web page (not yet anyway), but I have uploaded pictures at the following locations. It almost seems as if the easiest? way is just to replace that piece of sill (inner and outer) from the rear of the front wing to just behind the jacking point. Any thoughts?

Cheers

Peter

[www.lmandwr.co.uk]
[www.lmandwr.co.uk]
[www.lmandwr.co.uk]
[www.lmandwr.co.uk]
[www.lmandwr.co.uk]
[www.lmandwr.co.uk]

Remote control door mirror - 73 Federal Stag

leejohn7 — Thu, 17 May 2012 16:13:14 -0400

Any chance someone out there has a good mirror case and post? My glass is good, and all the cables are good, but the chrome shop tells me the pitting is so bad on the case that the pot metal base is sure to be deeply pitted, meaning they will be hard to grind out.
Would love to hear from you.
John Howard

Re: Inlet manifold fitment

leonh — Thu, 17 May 2012 10:12:34 -0400

Interesting update folks...........
I fitted the manifold with no gaskets and was able to easily fit a 50 thou feeler concurrently between all 4 mounting positions and the heads.
I then checked the Payen gaskets ( the supposedly best quality and thickest @1.5 mm thick) and found that the bolt hole group in the gaskets did not line up well with the manifold hole group. The error in the bolt hole group was around 3 mm and most certainly prevented me from fitting the bolts through.
I reckon that most of my problem is due to that hole misalignment rather than any problem between the manifold and the heads.
So I used the cheaper and thinner gaskets and found that they were a better fit, although it is still a fraught exercise.
Even those gaskets had a misalignment of around 2 mm between the bolt holes and the water jacket slot, but it was not disastrous.

Re: [stag] Re: A-post nightmare

Anonymous User — Thu, 17 May 2012 08:57:57 -0400

Its an excellent link with good photos but I do not see the bottom of
the A post where it reaches the floor panel.
It joins the top curved part of the inner sill and there is a small
tunnel shaped hole through it.
PeterH

Re: A-post nightmare

elvimto — Thu, 17 May 2012 01:19:06 -0400

Peter,
see if this will help Drew is doing a full on resto in Germany this is the UK site
[www.stag.org.uk]
lots of really good info.he fabs up a ton of stuff

cheers Stuart

[stag] Re: [TR] Where do I get Stag seat belt inertia reels?

Anonymous User — Wed, 16 May 2012 05:14:56 -0400

Here are some pictures of the inertia reel:
[www.flickr.com]

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
[www.flickr.com]
[www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk]
[www.mnautox.com]

----- Original Message -----
> From: pethier@comcast.net
> To: stag@digest.net
> Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2012 9:27:42 AM
> Subject: [TR] Where do I get Stag seat belt inertia reels?
> I'll tell you the story later.
>
> Right now, I need to know where to get Stag seat belt inertia reels.
>
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
> 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
> 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
> 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
> pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
> [www.flickr.com]
> [www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk]
> [www.mnautox.com]
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: [www.team.net]
> Archive: [www.team.net]
> Forums: [www.team.net]
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> [autox.team.net]

Re: [stag] Where do I get Stag seat belt inertia reels?

elvimto — Wed, 16 May 2012 01:32:02 -0400

EJ Wards sell them also I believe the usual suppliers

Re: [stag] Radiator fan thermal switch

lpvictor — Tue, 15 May 2012 14:43:40 -0400

Dear Staggers
Since long time I dont participate on this forum but I do read all the digests.
I have installed a revotec electronic thermal switch. First its clean, its not ugly, very reliable, and you can adjust the temp when turn on the fan.
I have it since 6-7 years ago and still working. It is inserted on the top hose where the ugly kenlowe elctrothermal...bla bla bla switch was installed.
have a look on [www.revotec.com]
regards to all Staggers
Luis
Portugal
LD1603LO

Re: [stag] Radiator fan thermal switch

sujitroy — Tue, 15 May 2012 12:42:52 -0400

John,
I went to Wincehester auto in Campbell and picked one that has a probe
you insert between the radiator fins. It work OK and it drives my Kenlowe. I
did away with the bulb thingy in the rad. hose/

Sujit

--------------------------------------------------------------

Sujit Roy
Realtor
Altas Realty,
Direct: (408) 839-8359
Email: sujitroy@yahoo.com
Website: [RoysRealty.com]
--------------------------------------------------------------

A referral
is the best compliment to receive.

________________________________
From:
Lee&John Howard
To: Randall
Cc:
stag@digest.net
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2012 6:17 AM
Subject: Re: [stag]
Radiator fan thermal switch

Thankyou Wayne and Randall. I hadn't thought of
the thermostat temp -
of course. My guy thinks I can find a switch to
fit....we'll see what
I can do.
JohnH
On Mon, May 14, 2012 at 8:34 PM, Randall
wrote:
>> Isn't this the way many American cars were/are
wired - the fan coming
>> on at one given temperature?
>
> Yup, many imports
as well. In fact I've never seen a car with an OEM
> hardware switch that
didn't work that way.
>
>> If this makes sense, what temp sensor
>> would you
chose? 180 ? 160K
>
> Good luck finding your choice of switches, that will fit
that bung. As
> Wayne said, with the sensor near the top of the radiator, I'd
want the set
> point to be somewhere above where the thermostat opens. Most
modern cars
> have it somewhere above 200F and even the sensor I bought that
was supposed
> to come on at 185F doesn't actually do so until about 210F.
>
>
FWIW, DeRale makes a nice little relay package, with either with a sensor
>
that screws in (via an adaptor, probably not supplied) or one that just
>
pushes into the radiator fins. A small trim pot allows you to adjust the
>
set point to suit your application. It even has an input for your override
>
switch.
>
> -- Randall

Re: [stag] What's the availability of the radiator cowl and deflector?

ShaneR — Tue, 15 May 2012 12:35:21 -0400

Stuart,

Yes, the lower and upper can be fitted without taking off the fan.

Best,
Shane R

Re: [stag] Radiator fan thermal switch

M. Stojanovic — Tue, 15 May 2012 11:19:16 -0400

I have installed a fan switch at the mentioned location (supplementary pusher fan, original fan retained). The switch is ON-87C (189F) but the engine temperature at the switching point is 90-91C (194-196F). The difference is, I believe, due to the difference between the temperatures at the top rad corner (lower) and at the back of the cylinder head (higher). The reason why I have selected this fairly low switching point is because it is for the low speed of the fan (a 2 speed fan). Just below the first temp switch, I have installed another one ON-91C (196F) which comes on when the engine temp is 95C (203F) and switches the high speed of the fan. This setup works very well: many times just the low fan speed is sufficient and the high speed comes on in really hot weather or after pushing the engine harder.

Miki

[stag] Where do I get Stag seat belt inertia reels?

Anonymous User — Tue, 15 May 2012 10:28:00 -0400

I'll tell you the story later.

Right now, I need to know where to get Stag seat belt inertia reels.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
[www.flickr.com]
[www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk]
[www.mnautox.com]

Re: [stag] What's the availability of the radiator cowl and deflector?

elvimto — Tue, 15 May 2012 10:23:03 -0400

Glenn,
can this be fitted without fan removal and I have the lower cover so is there a price adjustment or do I need to buy the three as a set.

Stuart

Re: [stag] Radiator fan thermal switch

leejohn7 — Tue, 15 May 2012 09:18:26 -0400

Thankyou Wayne and Randall. I hadn't thought of the thermostat temp -
of course. My guy thinks I can find a switch to fit....we'll see what
I can do.
JohnH
On Mon, May 14, 2012 at 8:34 PM, Randall wrote:
>> Isn't this the way many American cars were/are wired - the fan coming
>> on at one given temperature?
>
> Yup, many imports as well. In fact I've never seen a car with an OEM
> hardware switch that didn't work that way.
>
>> If this makes sense, what temp sensor
>> would you chose? 180 ? 160K
>
> Good luck finding your choice of switches, that will fit that bung. As
> Wayne said, with the sensor near the top of the radiator, I'd want the set
> point to be somewhere above where the thermostat opens. Most modern cars
> have it somewhere above 200F and even the sensor I bought that was supposed
> to come on at 185F doesn't actually do so until about 210F.
>
> FWIW, DeRale makes a nice little relay package, with either with a sensor
> that screws in (via an adaptor, probably not supplied) or one that just
> pushes into the radiator fins. A small trim pot allows you to adjust the
> set point to suit your application. It even has an input for your override
> switch.
>
> -- Randall

[stag] administrivia: notes on using this list

Anonymous User — Tue, 15 May 2012 01:55:21 -0400

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Re: [stag] What's the availability of the radiator cowl and deflector?

StagByTriumph — Mon, 14 May 2012 23:42:42 -0400

Cost for the 3 piece set is about the ebay cost of a two piece metal cowl set - $300 delivered - reasdy to fit with all hardware in the USA. Overseas delivery adds about $50 for Global express delivery insured.

Slight modificatiuon is required for "early" style radiators. Early style radiators do not have holes in the upper and lower tabs, so some holes need to be drilled for teh bolts to pass through the captive nuts supplied.

Wayne, your deflector will be shipped this weekend since you were instramental in testing before and after airflows and braved the prototype set from New Jersey to Dallas. IIRC, the test showed a 26% increase of airflow at idle

Cheers!
Glenn

RE: [stag] Radiator fan thermal switch

tr3driver — Mon, 14 May 2012 23:34:52 -0400

> Isn't this the way many American cars were/are wired - the fan coming
> on at one given temperature?

Yup, many imports as well. In fact I've never seen a car with an OEM
hardware switch that didn't work that way.

> If this makes sense, what temp sensor
> would you chose? 180 ? 160K?

Good luck finding your choice of switches, that will fit that bung. As
Wayne said, with the sensor near the top of the radiator, I'd want the set
point to be somewhere above where the thermostat opens. Most modern cars
have it somewhere above 200F and even the sensor I bought that was supposed
to come on at 185F doesn't actually do so until about 210F.

FWIW, DeRale makes a nice little relay package, with either with a sensor
that screws in (via an adaptor, probably not supplied) or one that just
pushes into the radiator fins. A small trim pot allows you to adjust the
set point to suit your application. It even has an input for your override
switch.

-- Randall

Re: [stag] Radiator fan thermal switch

Anonymous User — Mon, 14 May 2012 22:36:54 -0400

On 5/14/2012 9:05 PM, Lee&John Howard wrote:
> Hi Folks
>
> I've had a brilliant auto electrician helping on some issues. He
> suggests I do away with the "ugly" Kenlowe switch and go with a single
> temp switch that would replace what the parts book calls the "top plug
> assembly" - the sensor that screws into the top left corner which on
> my 73 MkII I presume to part of the (discarded) emmission control
> system. The single wire would run to the relay. I'd have an override
> switch at the dash.

Is this a Federal Car and does the thingie have 2 vacuum hoses plugged
into three ports? If so, that is a thermal vacuum switch (TVS) and it
has nothing to do with emissions. Well, maybe it does, but indirectly.
In the car as original, it had a vacuum retard module on the
distributor. The car would run at 4 degrees ATDC at idle which reduced
emissions but had the undesirable side effect of making the engine run
hotter. If the coolant temperature went beyond a certain point, the TVS
would close and valve off vacuum to the distributor, advancing the
timing, speeding up the idle and increasing cooling.

If you're not running the vacuum retard, then the TVS is superfluous and
you may as well replace it with something more useful like a fan switch.

> Isn't this the way many American cars were/are wired - the fan coming
> on at one given temperature? If this makes sense, what temp sensor
> would you chose? 180 ? 160K?

Federal Stags were never wired to have the electric fans (A/C equipped
cars only) controlled by coolant temperature as far as I know. A/C
equipped TR7s, however, were wired to do this. There was a temperature
switch on the upper right tank which, when closed, would turn on the fans.

What temperature you choose for the fan to come on at depends on you and
your level of comfort when looking at the gauge. If you have a 180
degree thermostat, it would make little sense for the fans to come on
below that. They'd just be running all the time. I would match the fan
switch to the thermostat temperature or a bit above.

--
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Wayne Simpson, Proprietor of the Last Chance Garage
Wayne@Last-Chance-Garage.com
Brick Township, NJ

/"Lover of Triumph's three bastard sons; TR7 / TR8 / Stag"/
------------------------------------------------------------------------

[stag] Radiator fan thermal switch

leejohn7 — Mon, 14 May 2012 21:06:05 -0400

Hi Folks

I've had a brilliant auto electrician helping on some issues. He
suggests I do away with the "ugly" Kenlowe switch and go with a single
temp switch that would replace what the parts book calls the "top plug
assembly" - the sensor that screws into the top left corner which on
my 73 MkII I presume to part of the (discarded) emmission control
system. The single wire would run to the relay. I'd have an override
switch at the dash.

This would certainly improve on the rinky-dink sensor that runs up the
rad hose, and would improve appearance. Less to go wrong.
Isn't this the way many American cars were/are wired - the fan coming
on at one given temperature? If this makes sense, what temp sensor
would you chose? 180 ? 160K?

Many thanks

JohnH

Re: [stag] Soft-top special bolts availability

elvimto — Sun, 13 May 2012 18:21:00 -0400

If you mean the bolts that put the whole frame together Rimmer Bros do a package all labelled etc.

Stuart

Re: [stag] What's the availability of the radiator cowl and deflector?

elvimto — Sun, 13 May 2012 18:15:29 -0400

Glenn,
What is the cost for one of these cowls? and would they work on a Mk one set up.

thanks Stuart

A-post nightmare

peterstag1 — Sun, 13 May 2012 16:33:41 -0400

I've just removed the driver's door on the Stag to get better access to the floor and I have some welding to do around the sils. Whilst I was there I was poking around the rear of the front wing/A post area to see how solid that area was when a chunk of the bottom of the A-post fell off - it was a steel plate that had just been fixed on with mastic! So I now have a bit of a gap between the bottom of the A-Post and the sill. Does anybody make replacement panels (nothing on Rimmers site), in particular just a repair panel, or is it time to get the hammer and tinsnips out!

Cheers

Peter

Re: RE: [stag] standard payen Head gasket

StagByTriumph — Sat, 12 May 2012 16:45:58 -0400

Marty has made these for TR7 racers.

I contacted Marty and he is willing to do a template on his laser cutter for the Stag - and in any thickness desired.

As Randall says, metal gaskets have special requirements. Copper has to be annealed -softened - with a torch on the first installation, and Marty recommends a copper spray on sealant on application - all from racing experience.

The plus side of the all metal gaskets is they can be made to compensate for any machining that has been done to the cylinder heads, and they are reusable many times. The minus side is initial cost, plus you absolutely MUST retorque your heads on regular intervals as metal gaskets do not take the small movement of the heatup and cooldown cycles like a fiber gasket does. Racing applications typically removes the head after each race, or retorque the heads and adjust clearances as necessary a lot more frequently than a road car.

The fiber gasket for the Stag is a very poor compromise of many misfitting and misaligned holes between the aluminum casting of the cylinder head and the engine block that are different casting issues between the left and right side heads. And there are only two thicknesses - 0.055 inch and 0.080 inches, the OE of the early series was 0.040 inch.
In the Triumph Stag DVD "Code Name Stag", there is discussion about a different design of the head gasket that did progress to the TR7 2.0 motor but did not get budgeted for the Stag. That gasket has a special rubber pattern applied to it to prevent leaks between the different fluid passages and different flame rings.

I have looked at this extensively and have a pair of paper templates to submit to Marty for experimentation, and I have an engine ready to assemble to test the gaskets. First run set would cost me about $600, then any subsequent sets would cost about $250 to $300 a set of 2 directly from Marty which in this case would be a left hand and right hand unique piece each.

Cheers!

Glenn

Re: [stag] What's the availability of the radiator cowl and deflector?

StagByTriumph — Sat, 12 May 2012 16:15:23 -0400

Hi Sujit,

What emails are you sending to? My contact email is StagByTriumph@triumphstagclub.org. Emails sent to the TSN all go me also.

I think the emails that may exist on the TSC USA Club site are very old and I can not change them on that site since I am no longer affiliated with that organization since I resigned 2009.

Current status of the three piece polycarbonate cowl sets - I am preparing for a new run of the sets after having sold out of the last three production runs. I have a few minor design changes to add to the mold, and am planning on a slightly different material with some carbon fiber in it.

Here is the latest look of the set in polycarbonate:

(or use this link - [www.triumphstag.net] )

My minimum run with this fabricator is 6 sets - basically 2 sheets of polycarbonate material that runs about $600 just for the material, then there is the labor and setup cost to form, cut and finish the three pieces, then I take the pieces, drill and fit each with the attachment hardware and do a test fit.

BTW, if anyone has had any issues with the polycarbonate cowl set, I want to hear about your experiences - good or bad. If there have been any failures of materials, I need to know about that so I can make improvements and provide you with replacements as needed.

Everyone needs to know that this has been a work in progress and in using new materials other than a metal stamping there is always a learning process. Yes, I can do these in metal if I do a production run of 1000 sets minimum - sorry, I do not have the funds for that expense which would be about $12000 US to have them made overseas.

One thing I found out is that the original two piece set made in polycarbonate absolutely must have the lower deflector shield installed for both proper cooling at highway speeds - this keeps the air normally deflected under the car from creating a pressure behind the radiator on the engine side - AND more importantly for structural rigidity of the whole assembly since the lower cowl half protrudes below the bottom of the lower front valance to cover the fan blades.
The reason for this additional structural need is that at highway speeds the lower cowl is flat to the wind and a low of pressure is exerted on that piece to push it back towards the fan blades - even if it is metal. With the lower deflector shield in place it has a perpendicular structure to hold the lower cowl properly in place.

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